Just thought I would pop in.....

Well. Here I am. I can't complain TOO much about a lack of material for my readers, I did spend a nice long weekend (not this past one, just before) in Sarasota, Florida, visiting my sister. In my defense though, that was total R&R, so probably not very exciting.

It is lovely down there though, I recommend a visit to any who have time, particularly if you live up north and are looking to escape the weather. It was sunny and 80 everyday I was there.

That still leaves me empty handed. Hopefully I will have something interesting in the coming days, but until then, remain patient, please.

You may want to check this out though, those of you already feeling nostalgic for 2012:
http://www.theatlantic.com/international/archive/2012/12/the-top-global-stories-of-2012/266034/

Cheers.

Four Corners' Holiday Special: Dinner and a Movie

Saved big on a tablet from Best Buy? Not interested. Shoved aside women and small children to get all those great buys at Wal-Mart on Black Friday? Bush-league. Why?  Because you couldn't possibly find a holiday deal better than this one! A Four Corners' Dinner and a Movie Special!

I'll start it out with the dinner. Many of you may remember my last restaurant review (already a month ago...I know, poor form), done on a place called A Taste of Cambodia (AToC). Well, AToC used to occupy a space on Bleecker Street (the de facto epicenter of Utica's ethnic restaurants) until it moved in July to its current location. Well, the vacated space didn't remain empty long, with a Thai restaurant (the only specialist Thai place in the area) taking over in August, to little fanfare (yeah, it wouldn't make sense for our brilliant local media to make news of something like that). Luckily, we happened upon it a couple of weeks ago while in the neighborhood. The newest edition to Utica's ethnic scene goes under the name KF TomYum.

And it was there my parents and I found ourselves this past Saturday evening. The ownership may want to lighten up the exterior a bit, there are some rather weak Christmas lights up in honor of the holidays, but otherwise I wasn't sure it was open, save the small, flashing "open" sign. The inside is tastefully done, not austere, but not really flashy either. They may still be in the process of putting up more paintings and wall decorations. Its a little more spacious than your average hole-in-the-wall, with four four-seaters lining each wall, and two, long, eight-seater tables occupying the middle of the room. A massive picture window gives a view out onto the street (though the "Bueno Barbership" across the way is the only visible thing really).

The menu is a bit thin, featuring appetizers, noodle dishes, soups, salads, and "single dishes" (a kind of box meal, only meant for one, and not to be shared). There are no deserts. A bit of an odd feature, and perhaps  because they haven't really found their feet yet, the front of the menu features three "smiley" faces, each a different color to indicate the spiciness of the various dishes. Unfortunately, these icons don't appear again anywhere in the menu, still leaving it up to the diner to ask about the spice content. An oversight for sure, but I found it kind of funny.

I kicked us off with an appetizer of pork balls. Which, I don't think you need much of an imagination here: steamed balls of pork stuck on skewers (four skewers, four balls each). The dish comes with that ubiquitous orange sauce that seems to come with every appetizer in an Asian restaurant. The pork balls were tasty, but didn't really rock our world. For the main course, we went with three dishes to share: a broccoli stir-fry (done with your choice of meat-we went with beef-with carrots mixed in as well), Pad Thai (I mean, you gotta. Also with choice of meat. We chose chicken), and Singapore noodles (angel-hair type noodles mixed with bean sprouts, other veggies, pork, beef, chicken, and shrimp, all done in a mildly spicy brown sauce).

Ummmm...Fantastic? Awesome? Crazy good? Out-of-this-World? I'll let you decide the superlatives, but KF TomYum's food is REALLY good. Now, for those keeping track, I have yet to give a bad rating to any of the area restaurants, but all three of us decided that our meal on Saturday night was our favorite. I don't even really know how to describe the individual dishes, they were just....delicious. It was the kind of food that you really didn't want to see disappear, but rather just keep on eating until you passed out or your body otherwise shut down. The Pad Thai wasn't as peanut-ty (I know, made up adjective) as some of its counterparts, but still had just the right taste. The stir-fry broccoli is a simple dish but the cooks out back hit it out of the park anyway. The Singapore noodles were a hit as well with the three of us. The sauce has only got a slight kick to it, so the faint of heart should have no issue. The thin noodles are piled on the plate, and its nice to get a mix of all the various meats. Again, no description is really necessary. KF TomYum does it right.

They do it right on the prices as well. I thought the pork balls were a bit steep at $4.99, but, from what I could tell, most of the dishes on the menu clocked in under 8 bucks. With the appetizer and three dishes, the bill came to $32 dollars, minus tip. The wait staff, (and by that I mean the small girl that runs back and forth) is kind and attentive, though their English is still in the learning stages (a request for lemon with our hot tea-which is free-seemed to evade her). I am happy to announce too that, though we were the only ones there when we arrived, the place eventually filled up! Chapeau Utica, there may be hope for you after all.

The menu could be a bit beefier, and no deserts is disappointing, but I really have to give a shout out to KF TomYum. They really hit the spot.

Verdict: Definitely check it out. Grade: 5/5

Movie Review: Lebanon (Israel)

What better way to follow-up a Thai meal than an Israeli war film? Beats me. Saturday night I sat down to "Lebanon", a 2009 film directed by Samuel Moaz. Based upon Moaz's experience as a conscript in the Israeli army, "Lebanon" is the story of a four-man tank crew during the early hours of Israel's incursion into southern Lebanon in 1982. In a unique twist, the film takes place entirely within the confines of the tank, with the only shots of the outside coming through the tank's gun-sight, with the cross-hairs imposed over the camera, and a hydraulic whir accompanying each movement of the camera.

As you can imagine, "Lebanon" is an odd film. The main idea appears to be witnessing the four-man crew (driver, gunner, ammunition-loader (lack of a better term), and commander) being brought to wit's end as they deal with the cramped, hot, stinking interior of their vehicle, while navigating through hostile towns. This is done to good effect, but it makes for some surreal scenes, as well as dialogue, a Hebrew version of some of Colonel Kurtz's scenes in "Apocalypse Now", if you will. I am not really into this kind of thing. At times it makes one wonder what is really going on, and leaves the viewer (at least it did me) a bit uncomfortable. There isn't a whole lot of action, but there are some very intense sequences, including some shots that are likely to make some feel ill at ease. I understand Moaz was probably going for a realistic portrayal of the horrors of war (as well as the banality of it-there are several shots of dead animals-perhaps some symbolism there that was lost on me) but there are some parts where he could have eased up without detriment to his film.

The acting seems solid enough, the four main characters appeared to have a good handle on what they were supposed to do. It's a war film, so don't expect anything groundbreaking from the dialogue. The most drawn out conversation that takes place between the characters is a rather disturbing story told by the gunner...one I am sure Moaz heard while serving. Given the setting of the film, there really isn't much to say by the way of choreography. I must say though, restricting the film to the inside of a tank has an interesting affect on the viewer. After a while, I really did begin to feel claustrophobic, and when they open the hatch in the very final scene, you almost feel like exhaling.

"Lebanon" probably provides a realistic view into modern-day conflict, and the human toll that comes with it, but I'm not sure this makes for good viewing. I couldn't really get into the film. Again, several scenes make you shift in your seat, and you just really want them to end. The actual physical affect of being in a tank the whole time is pretty unsettling too, but I give credit to the director for that, as odd as that sounds. Overall, I think it is a good film, but a tough one to recommend, you certainly have to be in the mood for it, and those new to darker films are advised to shy away.

Verdict: To most, I'll say skip it. Those looking for a hyper-realistic, uncomfortable war movie experience, may want to take a look. Grade: B-

If you liked this movie you might also like: Though the stories are radically different, "Apocalypse Now" seems an appropriate comparison.

Trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IMRD3z_mTqI

Screenshots:
This was a rental folks, I can't copy any images from my computer. Check out the IMDB site for some stills:
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1483831/

Tough Times

Well FC fans, looks like I again owe an apology. The winter doldrums are in full swing here in upstate New York, and have hit your humble correspondent some kind of fierce. Hopefully many of you have been busy putting yourself into food comas over Thanksgiving dinner, or trampling the weak and hurtling the dead on your way to some awesome Black Friday deals.

Never fear though, I should have a dinner and a movie special coming up very soon, with a restaurant review and a film review both on deck.

So, I should have something for everyone by the close of the weekend. Until then, stay warm (or, if you are already in a warm climate, spare a thought for those of us that aren't), and hopefully some travel will soon come our way (speaking of which...I go to Florida this Thursday to visit my lovely sister....should have something there to talk about).

Be back soon.

Movie Review: The Intouchables (France)

In case any of you were worried, I wasn't on a hiatus or anything......just lack of material to share with you. No travel as of late (miserable, I know), no movies in the past week-and-a-half, and no chance to hit up an area ethnic restaurant (though I did find out a Thai restaurant has recently opened up in downtown Utica). Throw on top of all that  Central New York's dip into cold, dark, depressing winter weather, and, yep, you've got FC in a total funk.

What better way  to pick up the spirits around here than watch "The Intouchables", the uplifting drama/comedy that is France's official submission to the next Academy Awards? Well, there are probably several other better methods (a nice trip to somewhere in Southeast Asia is a top choice), but this wasn't a bad back-up.

For the uninformed, I'm somewhat known for my penchant for dark/heavy/depressing films (see: Biutiful, Babel, Children of Men, etc), so "The Intouchables" is a bit of a departure for me. But I'm glad I went for a change of type, because it is a very good film.

"The Intouchables", based upon true events, is the story of Phillipe (played by Francois Cluzet), a middle-aged, Paris-based Plutocrat, who is also confined to a wheelchair, paralyzed from the neck down after a hang-gliding accident, and his unlikely round-the-clock assistant, Driss (Omar Sy-my first time ever watching him, but he is a very entertaining actor). The film begins with Phillipe interviewing suitors in his palatial mansion for the trying task of being his 24-hour caretaker. Driss, an immigrant from Senegal living in Paris' infamously rough suburbs, shows up for the interview solely to obtain a signature, evidence that he has tried and failed at obtaining a job, so he can claim welfare. Phillipe refuses to do so, and goads him to try and do the work. Driss takes the challenge, and the story sets off from there.

Now, that all sounds like a very cliche story-line, and in some sense it is, but there is something about "The Intouchables" that makes it unique, and worth watching. At least in this instance, there is no "angry, life-hating millionaire and the humble but insightful servant" set-up. Rather, this time around, the rich person's caregiver initially isn't even interested in taking the job. It is simply a story of friendship, and how two individuals from radically different levels of the social ladder can form a bond. There is lots of good humor in it, I believe it is a comedy at heart, and includes some real laugh-out-loud moments. I though both of the main actors were great in their roles, and the supporting cast isn't too shabby either. It touches on serious subjects as well, primarily the living conditions of those on the periphery of French society. Overall though it's a captivating movie in its own way, and I found myself wanting it not to end. Do be warned though, it could jerk a few tears from those with weaker constitutions.

Verdict: See it. Grade: A

If you liked this movie you might also like: "Driving Miss Daisy" sounds an obvious choice.

Trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C4O1VAAezxg

Screenshots:

Driss failing at feeding.

Trying to understand art. 

Movie Review: Once Upon a Time in Anatolia (Turkey)

Geez, I see that it's been 10 days already since my last post. Well, time flies when you are having fun (or, more to the point, plotting ways to make your escape from small-town New York). Anyway, with Hurricane Sandy about to make a fabulous entrance (congratulations, you live in Whitesboro, AND you get to deal with gale-force winds, sheets of rain, and maybe some snow mixed in), I figured I'd  better get this one up before we lose power and the whole Northeast goes dark for a few days.

Once Upon a Time in Anatolia (we'll refer to this one as OUTA from here-on in) is a Turkish film of much acclaim, enough so that it found its way onto FC's movie list. Like most foreign films I come across, neither the director nor any of the actors were previously known to me, so I didn't know what to expect. OUTA follows the journey of a diverse group of men: a police chief (Commissar Naci, normally referred to as Naci, or Boss, in the film), a doctor (Doctor Cemal, or just Doctor), a prosecutor from Ankara (the capital of Turkey, for the geographically-challenged) known as Prosecutor Nusret (though he's just referred to as Prosecutor), Naci's driver, Arap, and a ruffian known as Kenan. These are the main players, but several other guys, including a couple cops, two workers with shovels, and Kenan's friend, complete a supporting cast.

What is such a group of characters doing in each-other's company, you ask? Looking for a dead body, of course, in the rolling hills of eastern Turkey, the country's least developed region. Kenan and his friend (I never caught the name, the guy speaks about one line the whole film anyway) murdered another guy and buried him somewhere in the steppe, and now have to lead the police (headed by Naci) to the body. The doctor is on hand to provide an autopsy, and the prosecutor was needed for legal matters that were never made quite clear. You don't see the murder take place, nor the capture of the culprits, instead the movie begins with a convoy of vehicles driving in the dark, as Kenan tries to remember where they left their victim. He can't remember, of course, and that is what takes up the bulk of the film-the group's odyssey through the Turkish hinterlands in search of a dead guy.

I really don't know where to begin with this one, or even how to rate it. The first thing that stands out about OUTA is that it's a marathon: 2 hours and 40 minutes. It's a slow film too: lots of talking, with no action or excitement to speed things along. I actually had to watch it in installments. Now, don't confuse this with boring. I found quite a bit of the dialogue to be very intriguing, it's just.....slow. OK, at some points you wish things would hurry along, but I wouldn't label the film as being boring on the whole. There are a number of scenes that seem abnormally, and unnecessarily, drawn out. And I mean there is no dialogue or anything, just silence. For example, during a break from their search, the group stops in a village. During that sequence, at one point the doctor is sitting outside in the dark on his own, apparently thinking about something, while the wind swirls leaves around him and shakes the tree branches. This scene lasts for a few minutes, and I really couldn't tell to what end. I liked the plot-line, and the setting (rural Turkey has some pleasant scenery), but my main beef with OUTA is that, unfortunately, it  left me with the uneasy feeling that something went completely over my head, and I was missing some deeper meanings or methaphors. Several conversations take place, for example, primarily between the doctor and the prosecutor, that I just know had some deeper meaning that I failed to grasp. Overall though, I couldn't help but feel that I was dumber than the director had hoped.

There is still more that I liked about this film. I think the acting is very good, and the film also sheds light onto  some of the potential absurdities of the task at hand (upon finally finding the body, they realize they forgot a body bag, for instance) and there are even some humorous moments. Again, I also found much of the dialogue captivating. Unfortunately though, I'm not entirely sure I can recommend my readers go dive into a near 3-hour long film, particularly one that might leave them scratching their heads. This is by no means a bad film, quite to the contrary, I think is very well done, maybe even TOO well done. This is perhaps a tad too artsy-fartsy, a little too deep. Does this justify such a long run-time? I'm not so certain.

Verdict: I would say if you have the time, and the patience, OUTA is definitely worth a look, but I think there are more rewarding foreign flicks, for less time taken up.

Grade: B

If you like this movie you might also like: Once Upon a Time in the West, Once Upon a Time in America (disclaimer: never seen these films, but I know they are long, and they have Once Upon a Time in.....in the title)

Trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jJOFUsO_N20

Screenshots:

The lead car: Arap driving with Naci next to him, Kenan is squeezed between the doctor (behind Naci) and another officer. 

The group, bewildered by their fruitless efforts. The prosecutor is at center-front.

Restaurant Review: A Taste of Cambodia

And the march through central New York's ethnic restaurant's continues. Yesterday I treated my parents to A Taste of Cambodia which is a, uh, well, Cambodian restaurant.

AToC (that's my own acronym, but you can use it if you like) is located at 244 Roosevelt Drive in Utica, just across from where my grandfather use to earn his wages (well, its just an empty lot now, hopefully the city can find some use for it). Now, don't be confused here. The restaurant has only been at this location for a couple months. It used to be located on Bleecker Street, in the heart of downtown. Unfortunately, the proprietors haven't been very good about updating their Facebook page, so disregard that and be sure to visit the Roosevelt address.

It's a really quaint place, with only about 8-10 four-seater tables in a small room, but it has a classier feel than some of Utica's other Asian joints, and there is some nice decor related to Cambodia, including an awesome painting of Angkor Wat. Like most of the ethnic places around here, there was only one waitress on hand to serve us. No worries though....we were the only ones there.

Now, I have never been to Cambodia (THAT has got to be changed, tout de suite), nor have I ever had Cambodian food, so this was unfamiliar territory for me. Luckily, the menus give lengthy, detailed descriptions of each item, so the unfamiliar customer need not worry about ordering something blindly and then having a live duck put in front of them or something like that. Now, the menus are a bit limited. There is only one sheet, front and back, with appetizers, soups, noodle dishes, specialties, and desserts. Bear in mind though that this was the dinner menu, and the lunch menu is most likely different. I will probably have to visit again to get an idea of that.

We started out with an appetizer of pork dumplings (a serving comes with four). Though coming at a pricey $6, they were obviously freshly made (they didn't come out right away) and not bad on the taste buds either. Some might find them a tad on the salty side, but it didn't bother any of us three. Cilantro is mixed in with the pork, boosting the dumplings on the health scale.

So then came the main event. You can accuse me of being a bit boring, but I was in the mood, and went for the Jungle Pad Thai ($9, in the noodles section) (at least I am making a fist of comparing all the Pad Thais in the area). That price is actually a steal for what you get: A massive mound of delectable noodles and bean sprouts, basically buried in peanuts. I can usually house my Asian dishes no issue, but there was so much on the plate I struggled to finish. Mom decided on the Curried Stir Fry ($11, under specialties), which can be beef, chicken, or tofu (she went with chicken, which was of course all-white, breast meat), mixed with peppers, onions, and holy basil, all on a bed of rice. She couldn't stop raving about it, and, after trying a few bites, I would have to agree it was pretty stellar. The curry taste was a bit heavy, but not overpowering. Curry fans should definitely give it a shout. And then of course, there was Dad, ever the adventurer, who chose the Cambodian Crepes ($11, under specialties). You get about 3 large, thin crepe-style pancakes, made out of rice flour, each filled with minced pork and chicken, bean sprouts, onion, some coconut, and topped with lettuce and cucumber. It also comes with a peanut sauce for dipping. Yeah, that one was a winner. The crepes, sweet but not too sweet, mixed it with all the rest of the stuff were just delicious. Mom, no fan of coconut, also approved (the coconut is barely noticeable).

After literally leaving nothing on our plates, Mom declared that, out of the places I have taken them, this was the best. Hard to argue with. Absolutely no complaints about the food, the hygiene, nor the service. The service is a bit slow, but realize that everything is being freshly made, and I found out that the kitchen staff is literally comprised of one Cambodian lady just running around back there. Its maybe a little bit longer a wait than in an American joint, but its worth it. Regarding desserts, we passed. First off, we were stuffed, and second, the desserts all had some amount of coconut, so Mom wasn't interested. AToC is a little bit pricier than its counterparts, but not by much, and again, the quality meets the price. Thumbs up, all round.

Grade: 5/5.

Also, if anyone in the Utica area is peeping this review, or will be in the area at some point (I don't know why you would, but, still) go give AToC and the other ethnic restaurants I have reviewed some business! Its shameful to see a place like AToC  so empty, even on a Thursday evening. I'm tired of seeing a line snaking around Little Caeser's, when we have places offering up fairly-priced, authentic, and, above all, awesome tasting ethnic food. It also worth noting that these restaurants have all been run by no-kidding immigrants, so you might get a cultural experience, and learn a thing or two.

Best Ethnic Neighborhoods in the US

Great article from the BBC...be sure to hit these places up next time you are in the area!

http://www.bbc.com/travel/slideshow/20121015-americas-best-neighbourhoods-for-authentic-ethnic-food

Movie Review: Sleepless Night (France/Belgium/Luxembourg)

For those of you that saw my last post, where I provided a link to a list of 2012's top indie films, you would have noticed the top slot was occupied by Sleepless Night, directed by a Frenchman (Frederic Jardin-don't worry, I don't know who he is either), but billed to 3 Francophone countries: France, Belgium, and Luxembourg (I don't know how that works, or what it even means). The movie, of course, is in French.

Sleepless Night takes place in an unnamed municipality (I think Marseille would have been an appropriate location, given the story-line, but don't think that is it), but that hardly matters, as about 95% of the film is set in a large nightclub. Vincent is a corrupt cop who, along with his corrupt partner, begin the film by robbing a sack-full of cocaine from two transporters in the early hours of the morning. One of the transporters gets away, however, and is able to identify his assailants. That same day Vincent gets a call from the drug-king pin who the drugs belonged to, saying he has kidnapped Vincent's son, Thomas, and advises that he had better turn up with the stolen goodies. He has to show up at the drug lord's massive nightclub (Le Tarmac....I'll venture that translates to "The Tarmac"), where his son is being held.

Seems simple enough: return the drugs, get your son back, done. Well, two Internal Affairs cops show up at the club before the swap can take place, resulting in Vincent's losing the drugs (I'm not in the business of giving away too much plot-they nab the coke, but not Vincent, you'll just have to see for yourself how that all went down). So there he is, in a packed night club, with a new deadline to get the drugs back to their rightful owner before day-break or his son will be set on fire (yeep) and with two of his colleagues searching for him in a sea of dancing bodies.

Now, I'll grant that this is a rather unique plot-line, and it certainly sets itself for some high-octane action, but "Sleepless Night" disappoints. Sure, there are one or two pretty exciting fight scenes, including a drawn-out one in the club's kitchen, but the movie gets downright goofy at times, feels contrived, and the characters take some rather peculiar actions (that seem to defy logic), and some of the lines are obviously looking for laughs (where they shouldn't be), and failing at that. The first 20 minutes or so of "Sleepless" are pretty promising, and get you interested, but eventually it just jumps the shark, and you soon find yourself hoping for a conclusion. I'm not familiar with any of the actors in this film, and the acting wasn't dreadful, but it wasn't very good either. The actor playing Vincent is pretty convincing as an anti-hero for about the first half, but, much like the film overall, I ended up tiring of him, and he at times appeared to be a bit of an idiot, while at other times looking like a Jason Bourne-type clever dude.

Obviously this was all disappointing from a film that I had heard so many good things about. I can see where it earns merit: an fairly unique plot, some decent action. Unfortunately though, this isn't enough. I really wonder where it gains all the plaudits. Its IMDB rating is a pedestrian 6.6, but the list of indie films I posted the other day, and other sources, all heap praise on it. I fail to see what they base their ratings upon. Again, I liked what I saw for the first 20 minutes or so, but after that things began to fade. Sometimes the action in a film makes it such you can overlook other faults, but not so in this case. Too little, and too late. "Sleepless Night" is by no means an awful film, it's just pretty mediocre in the end. If you are really bereft of ideas, you might want to give it a shot, but don't overlook something else. There are too many amazing foreign flicks out there. For God's sake, see "A Separation" or "About Elly" if you haven't already!

Verdict: I'm gonna have to say pass. Rating: C

If you liked this movie you might also like: "Sleepless Night" has a Transporter-ish feel to it.....kinda.

Trailer: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KatVU-Phd0M

Screenshots:

Chaos in the kitchen

Vincent runs from pursuers....and disturbs the diners 

Indie Movies

For any who are interested, here is a list of the top indie films released in 2011 (the list says 2012, but most were released in 2011).

http://www.indiewire.com/article/the-indie-movies-of-2012-so-far-according-to-criticwire?page=2#articleHeaderPanel

Those who keep abreast here on FC will recognize a couple of those titles as having already been reviewed here. Perhaps there will be more to come.....

And of course, everyone knows that FC is really all about globetrotting, and there may be a chance of a end-of-year trip. I have a couple places in mind.....I'll be sure to let you know the scoop.

Travel Articles

Couple decent travel-related items found on the interwebs:

This one from Slate, which recommends good reads for long-haul flights:

http://www.slate.com/blogs/the_reckoning/2012/10/10/frequent_flier_feedback_books_for_longhaul_flights.html

and from the ever-reliable IHT, 10 travel websites worth checking out (Four Corners, surprisingly, was not on the list....massive oversight)

http://frugaltraveler.blogs.nytimes.com/2012/10/09/10-travel-web-sites-worth-bookmarking/?hpw

Movie Review: This is Not a Film

Well, actually, it is a film. And an intriguing one at that. I'll grant that it is not a normal one though.

Jafar Panahi is an Iranian director of some repute. I haven't seen any of his films, nor had I ever heard of him before watching "This is Not a Film", though upon checking out his CV, a number of them might be worth a look. Apparently his films pushed the envelope in terms of what was acceptable to the Iranian censors (one is about females being barred from soccer matches), and eventually the chickens came home to roost. In 2010, Iranian police raided his home and arrested him, under charges of making propaganda against the state. While he was awaiting sentencing, he was placed under house arrest. Taking place over a ten-day period in March of last year, the "This is Not a Film" documents Panahi's days under house arrest . Despite being barred from film-making during this period, the documentary was smuggled out of Iran, on a USB hidden in a birthday cake, and found its way to the Cannes Film Festival.

"This is Not a Film", which is only an hour and fifteen minutes long, is shot almost exclusively in Panahi's spacious apartment (the final 10 minutes or so take place in an elevator, while he talks with the building custodian), using a shoulder-held camera (primarily with the help of one of Panahi's colleagues) and an iPhone. As you might imagine, its not the most pulse-pounding stuff, and many will find it slow. Much of the first half is taken up by Panahi making phone calls to lawyers, trying to get details on the status of his appeal and what sentence he might be facing, and reading from/acting out (he uses the carpet in his living as kind of a set) parts of the script he was working on at the time of his arrest. His daughter's pet iguana, Igi, does make a couple humorous cameos though. You can tell that Panahi, along with being frustrated by his situation, is also quite bored with it. He spends part of the documentary watching the news (including scenes from the tsunami that battered Japan), and watching/explaining clips from his previous films.

"This is Not a Film" has an interesting ending though. It is night-time, and from Panahi's balcony you can hear and see large quantities of fireworks going off, apparently in celebration of the Persian New Year. Panahi's assistant, holding the camera much of the time, states that he must leave, and when the two are at the door (Panahi now filming on his iPhone), the building's custodian, a young man and hopeful art student, is just emerging from the elevator. Panahi's partner first descends, then, now armed with his regular camera, Panahi goes down the elevator with the young man, interviewing him along the way, making stops at every floor to collect trash.

Again, this probably doesn't sound like enthralling viewing, but I encourage people to see this film, if for no other reason as a form of protest against the Iranian regime/a show of solidarity with Panahi. However, there is still something captivating about "This is Not a Film" (the name of which, I understand, was inspired by the Rene Magritte painting "La trahison des image" (the treachery of images) ), and watching this artist struggle with life under forced isolation. I suppose, from a personal angle, I am very much interested in Iran, and any chance and a glimpse of life in that country, even if it is only a brief view from a high-rise balcony, or just the inside of a wealthy man's apartment, is still worth taking. I will also say that the very last part of the documentary, when he is interviewing the young custodian, is worth watching the film alone, as it gives a more personal and human touch to a country many of us will probably never be able to visit.Having said that though, anyone who appreciates the art of film-making should probably taking the hour and a quarter and watch this film, because is most certainly still is a film.

Verdict: See it. Grade: B+

(In place of the usual "If you liked this movie", I'll just state here that Jafar Panahi was eventually sentenced to jail for six years, and barred from any film-making activities, including giving interviews, for twenty years).

Also, a couple new additions to the film review section. Since I am now only doing foreign films, many of them quite obscure, I will post the trailer, whenever available. So, here you have the trailer for "This is Not a Film":

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AgZy00svH08

Also, to make things more interesting, I figured a couple of screenshots from each film wouldn't hurt:

Panahi contemplates his situation while taking a smoke break on the balcony.

Igi interrupts proceedings. 

Ireland, for the last time, and more.

Happy Sunday FCers, hope the week treated you well.

It's a bit late, but I thought the FC Ireland trip was still lacking something. It dawned upon me that many of you might be interested in a visual representation of our driving route on the Ireland. See the map below, courtesy of Google Maps, to see just how we did it.

So now, with the Ireland tale told in full, all we can do is just wait for the next adventure. Vietnam is on the cards, with a late January/early February departure expected. However, there may still be time to squeeze in another this calendar year. What will FC choose? Its a good question. With winter fast approaching upstate NY, a trip south of the equator isn't out of the question. But, until then though, all we can rely upon foreign films, restaurant reviews, and anything that catches my eye on the interwebs. Speaking of which, if you didn't know already, you really should check out the VICE Guide to Travel, here: http://www.vice.com/the-vice-guide-to-travel

VICE is kind of a mish-mash website/magazine, covering pop-culture, travel, politics, fashion, etc. Their travel guide, which includes video productions, is best summed up as VICE journalists going to the craziest, most dangerous, most off-the-beaten path places, and reporting on them. The videos, which are normally a half-hour long, are enthralling, I highly recommend.

Beyond that, I should have a movie review here soon. No chance to sample more of Utica's finest ethnic establishments, have to wait a bit for that I suppose.

Cheers. 

Northern Ireland: No Trouble Here

Students of history will hopefully get the reference in the post title. Anyway, Its been nearly a week since my return home from the Emerald Isle and some of you may remember that I still owe a post from that journey. Anyway, now that I have my business-related travel out of the way (I had to go to Virginia almost immediately after returning home) and the weekend is finally upon us, here you are:

Going way back, to the third day in Ireland, we picked up our rental from the Dublin airport and, after all the bureaucracy involved there, were on our way out of the country. That's right, don't forget that Northern Ireland is still part of the UK. Crossing over the border is seamless though, no customs stations at the borders or anything. Signs change (miles instead of kilometers, Gaelic is dropped, for example), but other than that, you wouldn't know you just entered another country.

Its just under two hours drive between the island's two largest cities. After entering Belfast, it took us a few minutes to find our destination, but, given that driving was on, you know, the wrong side of the road, Joe handled it well. We were looking for the Days Hotel, right in the heart of downtown. From there, we could call and schedule a Black Taxi Tour. Now, a Black Taxi Tour is given in a cab (not necessarily black though...our's was blue) and it takes one to all the important sites related to The Troubles, the period of strife between Catholics (who favor re-uniting with the rest of Ireland) and Protestants (loyal to the UK) and British forces between the 1960s and 80s, along with a final stop at the shipyard where the Titanic was built.

The hotel staff contacted a company for us and we just had to wait a few minutes until we were underway, though I was quizzed about my Arsenal track jacket a bit (that might not have been a smart choice of clothing for this particular portion of the trip). One of the maids, with a very rough Irish accent, asked me "yer not an Arsenal fan, are ye?!". Anyway, we were greeted by Kevin (wearing a Liverpool shirt. Arsenal had just beaten them the other day, so Kevin wasn't thrilled with my jacket either-but kept it friendly).

Now, I had had the tour recommended to me by a friend who had lived in Ireland. And now I can safely recommend it as well. It was awesome! Even if you aren't interested in that frame of history, it is still pretty eye-opening, and bear in mind that resentment between the two religious groups does linger. Kevin is Catholic, and his tour did come with bias, which I loved. Some might complain about this, but I think it gives the tour a great twist, and makes it even more interesting. He threw the occasional barb at his Protestant countrymen. For instance, when showing us one of the gates to the massive wall that surrounds the Catholic neighborhoods, cutting them off from the Protestants, I asked how British soldiers could tell who to let in and who to turn away (the gates are no longer manned, but do still close at night). He said it was easy, Protestants' eyes are closer together, because they are all inbred (just a disclaimer here: that is obviously not true. It was mainly by choice of clothing). What is also fantastic is the intimate knowledge the driver's have of the whole situation, as they grew up during or were even involved in The Troubles. Kevin was far too knowledgeable not to have had a front row seat to all of it. Our tour took us past some of Belfast's most famous political murals, Europe's most-bombed hotel, the city's infamous prison and courthouse, and the Wall of Collusion, a memorial in the Catholic area to those killed by British and Loyalist forces. Kevin knew several of the faces on the wall. We were also allowed to sign the Peace Wall, a part of the wall separating Catholic and Protestant neighborhoods that has been overtaken by graffiti, much of it appealing for peace. Bill Clinton signed it during a visit. First Bill, then Adam.

After a quick stop at the Titanic Shipyard ("The Irish built it and let the English sink it" was the take-home lesson from Kevin) we bade our adieus to Kevin and to Belfast, to explore some more of Northern Ireland. We drove through County Antrim (the county Belfast is located in) along the North Atlantic coast. We bounded upon an abandoned castle (our lucky day too, just as a rainbow was forming over it), attempted to see a long rope bridge (it was closed...but the walk to it was nice nonetheless) and made it to the Giant's Causeway, a curious rock formation, just before it became too dark too enjoy it.

We ended the day, some might remember, in Londonderry (or Derry, as Kevin scolded me). We checked into our Bed and Breakfast, owned by the wonderful Seamus (awesome name, by the way), who wasn't bothered by us showing up at the late hour (2230). He recommended that we walk the few blocks or so down the road to Peadar O'Donnell's, a local pub popular with the locals, as they were having live music that night (check out the bar's website: http://www.peadars-gweedorebar.com/)

So we did just that....and it was remarkable. We walked in to a boisterous atmosphere, a band comprised of a fiddler, a bagpiper, and a dude on guitar were belting out Irish music, and a couple of the bartenders were trying their hand at a jig. Awesome. Derry not being a huge tourist venue, we were probably the only non-locals in the place, which I was just fine with. Despite being a Sunday night, the place was still packed, apparently nobody was too concerned with the start of the working week. So there we were, a table with a perfect view of the band, enjoying music, the atmosphere, the rambunctious guys sitting next to us (they went pretty nuts during a couple of the band's numbers), and our own conversation and jokes. I could have listened to the Irish music for quite some time, but around 0100, some public security officers came in and told the crowd to drink up, it was time to go home.

So that concludes the Irish adventure. Bring on the next one. Until then, I should have some restaurant and movie reviews (its been a while since we had one of those) and anything else I deem worthy. See you back here, very soon. Before you leave though, do check out some photos from Northern Ireland:

Mural in Protestant area of Belfast

Signing the Peace Wall

Kevin and Your Correspondent share a laugh (not at the Protestant's expense though)

Rainbow over County Antrim (castle can be seen in the foreground)

Looking out over County Antrim's coast

Part of the Giant's Causeway

The Four Corners conquers another part of the World

Annnnndd.....we're back!

So from the Emerald Isle to the Empire State....I write to you from Whitesboro, NY-similarities with Ireland? Very few. That's OK though, all good things do eventually come to an end, and what a good thing it was.

Ireland was my first experience renting a car, it may be a bit pricey (and we had 4 people to split the costs), but you just have to do it in Ireland, I actually can't envision doing it any other way. Not only could we bounce between the main sights, but also saw so much of, I'll you use the Four Corners' Official Term here, the spaces in between (for those of you that don't know, those are the parts of any given country outside the big cities and tourist sites, and are likely the most authentic representation of that country's lifestyle). And I just life for that stuff.

Again, a big thanks to my travel partners, couldn't have gone off without you. Joe was a tip-top driver (I only had to remind him once that we had to drive on the left!) and Hayley and Kathleen kept the conversation going doing the long stretches of driving. Nothing really beats traveling with my Big Sis either.

So, with that, I have bid adieu to Ireland and its wonderful people, breathtaking scenery, and its fascinating history. As always, I was disappointed to leave, my time on the island had been such a blast, but, now we just have to look forward to the next adventure.

I realize I owe a post and some photos, and I will get to that in due time, until let, let me first get my bearings and settle back in, and I will be back very soon.

Cheers. 

Ireland Final Day

Did you miss me yesterday? I can only imagine that you did. I will start with an apology then. I was pretty bushed last night, and we had an early start today, so I decided to skip a post. Yesterday it was the day of two castles: The Blarney Castle (yes, the one with the Blarney Stone) and the Rock of Cashel (it's basically a Castle). We spent part of the morning doing some shopping in Killarney (including myself, I laid down a mint on a wool sweater for Hayley....she deserves it though, and she looked good in it, so money well spent) and then made the hour drive to Blarney and see the famed castle and its associated stone. The castle itself is actually pretty neat and well preserved, and the grounds are nice as well. But the visit wasn't complete until we queued with the other tourists and kissed the famous stone, searching for the gift of eloquence that it supposedly imparts.

After that, it was a two hour drive to Cashel, in County Tipperary. The Rock of Cashel sits on a hill overlooking the town, which looks cool unto itself, as you can see it immediately when you pull into town. The structure is home to a rock that comes from a hill north of the site (the hill is actually visible) where St. Peter supposedly banished Satan from Ireland. The on-site castle also apparently served as the seat of kings for several hundred years. There is a big, cavernous cathedral, and the hill-top the Rock sits on gives great views of the surrounding areas. An abandoned monastery is not too far away down the hill, so we checked that out as well to get a good view of the Rock (and no, when we arrived, Sean Connery wasn't there saying: "Welcome to the Rock").

And that was pretty much that, we ended that day by driving to Wicklow, south of Dublin by about 40 minutes. We had some difficulty finding the place, but eventually made it unscathed. It was strategic placement, as we wanted to spend part of today exploring the Wicklow Mountains, another natural attraction of Ireland's. Hayley had to catch a 1700 flight today, and we wanted her to see the area as well, so that was the reason for our early start. Before entering the Wicklow National Park, we stopped at an area known as Avondale Forest that (according to the guidebook) was home to the confluence of two rivers. The spot, known as the Meeting of the Rivers, is so beautiful it inspired one of Thomas Moore's (an Irish poet) poems. We took one of the marked trails for an hour, but never found the spot. The only thing close was a little stream running into one of the rivers, and, if that was the location the book was talking about, I want my money back. Best guess is, we missed it. Anyway, we made up for the disappointment by stopping in Glendalough, in the National Park, and walking around a set of lakes surrounding by mountains. Much more breathtaking stuff, maybe Moore should have stopped by there.

Soon though, we had to get Hayley on a plane back to the states. After seeing her off, Joe, Kathleen and myself made it (again with some difficulty) to our final hotel, where we are just taking it easy until the journey back tomorrow.

So this is the final full day in Ireland. It has been a fantastic trip, but there is still more to talk about. I should have internet in the airport tomorrow, so I can give a final post before boarding, but if not, I'll see you back in the States.

 

Standing in the cathedral at the Rock of Cashel

 

The Rock of Cashel, as viewed from an abandoned monastery

 

Final photo of the whole gang (along with a random duck) this time in Wicklow. 

Dingle and Inveragh: A Tale of Two Peninsulas

I'm not so sure I should even bother with a write-up today. A photo collage would probably due the trick just fine. Today was spent traveling about some of the best natural beauty that the Emerald Isle has to offer, and I doubt any descriptions I attempt will do it any justice. You'll get an idea of what I am talking about from the photos below, but before you get to those, just a little background:

We began the day in Dingle, in the Emlagh Lodge, the small B&B right on the seafront and run by the lovely Maggie. She started off our day right with a full Irish breakfast, and then we explored some of the shops catering to tourists along the little town's main street. From there we picked up the road that rings the entire peninsula, and just took in the scenery, primarily stunning views out onto the sea. The entire peninsula, located in the southwest of Ireland (I probably forgot to give you guys some kind of geographic reference), can be driven probably in under an hour, but you must stop at some viewpoints along the way.

After Dingle we made the short trip down to the peninsula directly across from Dingle (several peninsulas jut out from Ireland's southwest), Inveragh. Inveragh is home to something known as the Ring of Kerry (Inveragh is in Kerry County, as is Dingle), a road that loops the peninsula and offers gorgeous views, both out over the sea and at inland scenery. It is a popular tourist thing to do, but I think we may be approaching the low season, so we didn't encounter too much traffic. A number of towns and fishing villages dot the route, and of course there are numerous designated viewing points to take it all in. Like I said, I won't bother with descriptions, take a look at my teaser picks below, and there will be much more to come afterwards.

By around 2030 we arrived in Killarney, one of western Ireland's larger towns, and where we will bed down tonight. We walked around the town a bit after dinner in our hotel pub, but most shops had closed for the night, and even the pubs sounded a bit too quiet. So, with that, here I am, ready for bed, and for more to come tomorrow.

 

One of the viewing points along Dingle Peninsula, overlooking a set of islands

 

From Dingle Peninsula again

 

Driver and Navigator, with their set of wheels

 

Along the Ring of Kerry, looking inland. Kathleen, Joe's sister, is on far left

 

A loch along the Ring of Kerry. 

 

I'll have to check, but I don't think we have this kinda thing back home

On the road from Sligo to Dingle

Just a quick recap here folks, I want to get some shut-eye before a busy day tomorrow. We started our day in Sligo, driving southwards along Ireland's western coast. I primary destination was the Cliffs of Moher, in County Clare. The Cliffs are a prime tourist spot, and the place was crowded, despite the biting wind coming off the Atlantic. The Cliffs are a magnificent site, and you can walk all along them (some spots lack any guard-rail or fence...yeep) but you have to see to believe.

It took us maybe 3 hours to get there from Sligo, but we made a couple stops along the way, including a quick peek into a small castle in the little town of Kinvara, in County Galway. After the Cliffs it was another 3 hours to our next resting stop, the quirky-named town of Dingle, in County Kerry. The route once again took us through some picturesque Irish countryside. It was our longest day of driving, but we passed the time with jokes, debates, and conversation.

We arrived in Dingle just in time to catch dinner at the local pub, Murphy's, before the kitchen closed at 2130. Right then though, two singers showed up (an older dude and woman), to entertain the crowd (which was basically all tourists) with some life music, the man on the acoustic guitar, the woman switching between flute and banjo. The sang folsky Irish songs for the most part, and got the whole bar involved, or tried to, having us clap and sing along. They did take some suggestions, and I had him sing "Peggy Gordon". I'll say that he did a much better job than the group of drunks in Dublin. We listened until they called it a night at 2330, and then we retired ourselves.

More tomorrow hopefully, here are some photos from today:

 

The castle in Kinvara, with a loch right beside it

 

The Cliffs.......

 

....and from the other side

 

Not my most flattering pose...it was windy and I had four layers, I promise I'm not that fat

 

The Irish countryside rolls on by (warning: low quality)

County Donegal: Where Eagles Dare

Another wild day to follow up yesterday's amazing adventure (regarding that...you will probably have to wait until my return back to the States for that story..it is a long one, and definitely worth telling. It ranks as one of my best days of travel, and that is saying something).

Today was spent in County Donegal, Ireland's northernmost province. We started the day in Derry, in Northern Ireland, where we ended off yesterday. Before leaving town we took a quick walk down Rossville Street in an area known as the Bog Side, site of the Bloody Sunday Memorial (Blood Sunday, for the uninformed, took place in Derry, or Londonderry (the official name, but Republicans, or those who want to unite with the rest of Ireland, like to drop the "London") when British Paratroopers opened fire on unarmed protesters) and some really neat murals related to The Troubles. From there, we hopped back in the rental and pretty soon we had crossed back into Ireland proper and into County Donegal.

First order of business was to stop at Grainan of Aileach. The Grainan is circular, stone structure that apparently was built by pagans, probably to sacrifice animals and do other unspeakable things. The site itself wasn't much, but it was located on a hilltop and gave good views of the surrounding areas. Donegal is not heavily urbanized, and hosts some wonderful countryside. I read that it remains the most untouched by tourism, and gives the best feel for rural Irish life. 

From there we drove the half-hour or so into the heart of the county to Donegal's large Glenveah National Park. There on of our more intrepid adventures awaited us: hiking Mount Errigal. Errigal is the tallest mountain in the county, standing at about 751 meters. However, it is considered the island's most iconic mountain. So there you have it. So, dressed as warmly as we could make it, we parked our car at the little spot at the mountain's base, and set off into the clouds. You basically had to march through a bog at the base, so right off the bat our feet got a bit wet, but eventually things got a little drier, albeit steeper. Eventually we reached a rock-strewn point that seemingly offered no route to go further. Thinking we had done all we could, we began to descend, but we saw a lone hiker above us, an older gentleman, and he shouted in his sing-song Irish accent- "Not going to the top"? Indicating our ignorance, he pointed us to a path, and then we were on our way. It was really a path in name only-a steep slope made of mainly loose rocks meant you couldn't just stroll up. At some points you get..let's say a little too close for comfort to the edge...as in, you slip and your afternoon is going to end very, very poorly. Either way, huffing and puffing, we made it to the top of this bloody mountain. Initially, the clouds that you are standing in (yes, that high up) limited visibility, but, because our luck is similar to that of the Irish, the wind cleared the clouds, and the spectacular views of the surrounding areas opened up. Several bodies of water dotted the land below...and they looked so blue and clean that they may have not been real. We also met up with the Irish dude at the summit, where he kindly offered us some biscuits and snapped a photo of us. Desmond (or Des, as he liked) typified the friendly Irish disposition, and he gave some advice for other spots to check out in the county. Though older, he was much fitter, and made the (rather harrowing) descent down much quicker than we could.

Already well into the afternoon, we changed out of or wet and muddy clothes and headed southwards. We really only had two destinations in the County, but I had us take a little detour. First though, driving through the County gives one an outstanding look at Irish countryside-I just had to take a couple shots from my seat, riding shotgun. On the other hand, the roads are incredibly narrow and twist this way and that...so the driver's experience might not be that relaxing. Joe didn't seem to mind though, and I give him all kinds of credit, he has taken to driving on the left like a champ. So far only he has taken the wheel, and I think being on the left wouldn't bother me so much, but the absolute tightness of some of these roads would have me white-knucklin'. Tip of the hat to Joe, he doesn't seem too bothered. Anyway, I had us stop in Glencolumbkille, a tiny little village that I had heard was kinda neat. It worked out well, since we were hungry. Well, sort of. It appeared that all food places we closed up, so we had to settle with buying sandwich-making materials from a little convenience store. The old guy running the cash register seemed nice enough, but I could barely understand his accent. Lucky for us, we had parked in a small, gravel area that had, get this, picnic tables. There enjoyed a dinner of sandwiches and chips in this quaint little town. Before moving on though, we took a quick drive through and found a thatched-roof cottage (thanks to the cashier's barely intelligible directions), one of my main things to see. Check that one off.

Last site was the Slieve League, some of Ireland's tallest cliffs. Luckily, we could drive up to a view point and look over the cliffs. It was essentially a one-lane rural road leading the way up, so passing oncoming traffic got kind of interesting, but we made it unscathed. We enjoyed the awesome views, along with some daring sheep, chewing grass along the edge. Soon though, tired, cold, and with darkness setting in, we made our way back to the main road and drove the Sligo, in, well, County Sligo, where we will bed down for the night.

Hope that was enough for you, cause I'm whipped. Here are some shots of today's action, hopefully more good stuff will come from tomorrow:

 

Paradise found...near the top of Mt. Errigal (maybe paradise would be a bit warmer)

 

Snapshot of rural Ireland from the front passenger side

 

The main street in Glencolumbkille (basically the only street)

 

Thatched-roof cottage!

 

Yeah, don't mind the, ya know, imminent death that awaits you if you slip

 

Your Humble Correspondent with his lovely sister, Slieve League in the background

 

With the Slieve League again, this time different angle

Northern Ireland: Doesn't Get Any Bigger Than This

Sorry for lack of a post last night folks. It was an action-packed day, but we had some internet issues here in the bed and breakfast in Derry, but I was beat anyway. We are getting set to head back into Ireland proper, so I will have to give you the details later.

Until then, still more to come.

Dublin Day A Dó (that's two in Gaelic...though barely anyone speaks it)

The curtain has closed on our second day in Ireland's capital. We didn't cover a whole lot, but still made a full day of things.

After rousing a bit later than we had intended (barely sleeping on the plane ride over really sapped us, so I think we earned a 10-hour night), we took the Luas down to the center of the city, where we moved onto the Temple Bar area. On Saturday mornings, an organic food market sets up in Temple Bar, and we were all curious. Disappointingly, it wasn't very large, with maybe just a dozen or so stalls. Organic fruits and veggies, baked goods (which did look delicious), and meats were all on offer. We all ended up buying a little something-I plumped down for some homemade sausage wrapped in a flaky roll. A decent lunch (yep, that's how late a start we got).

With the organic market done with, we moved on to one of the city's main sites: The Guinness Storehouse. I doubt I have to get into much history here, but Guinness is Ireland's signature brew-Arthur Guinness set up his company producing the famous black drink in 1789 in Dublin. If you haven't heard about this drink, I ask how you have an internet connection where you live under a rock. Anyway, the so-called storehouse is more of a museum, giving the history of the company, details about the process of making Guinness, and of course opportunities for tasting. Its a huge building, something like 8 stories (that's big for Dublin, its a very low-lying city, and I wouldn't be surprised if the Storehouse is the tallest structure). The bottom floors have exhibits on the process of making Guinness, which didn't really interest me that much, but some of the higher floors have more interesting things, such as a history of the company's advertising campaigns.

The self-guided tour (16 euros for an adult) ends off with a free pint at the top of the building known as the Gravity Bar, which gives great panoramic views of the city. It was packed with tourists though, so we took our drinks to a lower level with ample seating. After hanging out for a bit and then doing some souvenir shopping in the obligatory gift shop (you would be surprised the kind of things you can slap the Guinness logo on-oven mitts? Really?), we headed back to our place of residence for a rest and to put down our gear.

After hanging out for a beat, we headed back out into the cool evening (a jacket is recommended for the later hours here in Dublin), primarily for a meal. Returning to the city center, we first passed by St. Patrick's Cathedral (another huge stone structure) and its adjacent park, where locals and tourists alike were enjoying the evening. From there we basically just ambled about for a place to get an Irish meal, finally settling on a pub called O'neill's (a bit cliche, I know), where I could satisfy my urge to get Shepard's Pie. It was a bit odd, it had all the look and feel off a pub, but you had to go to a room in the back to order the food cafeteria style. This was alright, we didn't have to wait long to eat. Better yet, the food was good. Shepard's Pie eaten, check that off.

From there we walked along Grafton Street, the main pedestrian and shopping street in the city. Disappointingly, it was a bit quiet, I was hoping for a chance at some people watching, but apparently things slow down on Grafton during the night. We took a quick peep into Dawson's Lounge (on Dawson Street, parallel to Grafton), supposedly the smallest pub in the World. It was pretty tiny, but could probably take 20 or so people, I think that claim might be dubious. From there, we walked around just a bit more, checking out another pub of note, Grogan's. The interior was very nice, with wood-paneled walls adorned with various artwork, and a stain-glass window. We didn't hang around for a drink though, as the crowd's absent from Grafton had apparently congregated there. So with that, with the clock nearing ten, we came back to the apartment. I'll say that, despite my short stay so far, Dublin has pleased me. It isn't really packed with things to see, but it has a wonderful big-town feel (I love a mega-city as much as the next guy (Bangkok-can't wait to go back) but sometimes large cites can be overpowering. Dublin, even though its a capital, doesn't do this to the visitor. Its just pleasant), it's very easy to get around, and the locals have proved to be very friendly and always willing to help. Many parts are very touristy, but Dublin is most certainly worth a shout.

Tomorrow, the real adventure begins, as we rent a vehicle and head north. Come by to see how we did driving on the left, and more. Until then, check out some pics:

 

Try the sausage roll....it's delicious

 

The gang does Guinness

 

Dublin skyline from the top of the Guinness Storehouse

 

The park next to St. Patrick's Cathedral

 

The interior of Grogan's was pretty classy

 

Dublin-First Full Day Recap

Picking up where I left you all this afternoon (or morning, for my stateside readership), here we go:

With our minds on getting something to eat, the first part of our journey was on foot, in the immediate vicinity of our apartment. We didn't spot anything that we fancied food-wise, but we came upon one of the main sites in the city, Kilmainham Jail. I am not too far up to speed on the jail's history, but do know that it served as the execution spot for the perpetrators behind the 1916 Easter Rising against British rule. Now a museum, guided tours are required to see the inside, and all at that point were fully booked, so we cut our losses and just snapped some photos of the outside.

From there we caught the Luas into the city center, getting off at Abbey Street, right in the heart of the city. The area was bustling with shoppers and tourists in the afternoon (the day was graced with very pleasant weather, cool, but not so much that you were uncomfortable in a t-shirt). On one of the pedestrian side streets we grabbed a bite to eat at a fish-and-chip type joint (burgers and other sandwiches were also on the menu...prices weren't shocking, but what you would expect in a European capital). After replenishing our energy reserves, we walked southwards, crossing the Liffey River, the main waterway in the city, heading in the direction of Trinity College. Trinity is an exceptionally old (1600s maybe? I'm not sure, I have a lot of reading up on Dublin's history to do) campus located right in the center of the city. The college is known for its beautiful grounds as well as housing the Book of Kells, an illustrated version of some of the gospels, written by Celtic monks way back, and I mean way back (800 AD apparently). We checked out the campus and paid the admission to see the Book (its normally 9 euros per adult, but, since it was so close to the closing time of 1700, the price was cut in half. Just a little tip there for those of you considering a visit). Maybe we are all just a bunch of brutes, but none of us were overly impressed by the Book of Kells. What did catch our interest was the so-called Long Library that is attached to the building holding the Book. Its the type of library you see in the films, an elongated room with rows of tall bookshelves stacked with old book. Ladders are attached to sliders in the ceilings for ease of access. Unfortunately, no photos allowed (though Hayley did sneak some on her iPhone).

From there were explored some more on foot, walking through the Temple Bar area (a rather cheesy pedestrian area filled with pubs that serve tourists at jacked-up prices), giving a quick look at the ground of the Dublin Castle (nothing too special there) and then hanging around the Christ Church Cathedral. Tables were set up on the grounds of the church, allowing us to rest our dogs and enjoy the nice weather.

From there though we decided enough was enough, we were battling some pretty heavy jet-lag, so we took the Luas back from whence we came. The night wasn't over though. After hanging out in the apartment shooting the breeze for a stretch of time, we set out into the night in the direction of the Black Horse Inn, a pub located five minutes from us. What else could it be for other than to indulge in some Guiness.

Now, I'm sure that many of my readers know my take on alcohol, but for those who don't, its not my scene. But, I couldn't come to Ireland and not have some Guiness with my traveling mates. So, there we were, four foreigners in a dingy bar filled mainly with old Irish men. Our first sight was a table of four older gentleman, already three sheets to the wind, arms around eachothers' shoulders, belting out the Irish classic "Peggy Gordon". That made my day right there.

We grabbed a table with our dark brews and each drew down our glasses to the bottom, with good conversation accompanying. One was enough though, and we finally called it a wrap on our first night in the Republic of Ireland.

Still more to do tomorrow. Be sure to come back and hear the deets, until then though, her are some photos:

 

Joe enjoying the comforts of our accommodations (nice job Hayley!)

 

Your Humble Correspondent at Trinity College

 

The College's near perfect grounds

 

Gangster.

 

Christ Church Cathedral

 

When in Rome........