Movie Review- About Elly (Iran)

Many of you may remember how I was floored by "A Separation", the 2011 Iranian film that took home the Best Foreign Film award from the most recent Academy Awards. "About Elly", made two years earlier in 2009, has many connections with "A Separation", including the director, Asghar Farhadi, and a number of actors. There is also one other very important commonality: they are both fantastic.

"About Elly" is the story of three husband-and-wife teams (males first): Amir and Sepideh, Peyman and Shohreh, and Manoochehr and Naazi, along with three children, two of them belonging to Peyman and his wife, the other to Amir and Sepideh, and their trip to northern Iran for a vacation along the Caspian sea. They are accompanied by another mutual friend, Ahmed, and Elly, who is teacher to Amir and Sepideh's daughter. Elly has been coaxed into joining the trip by Sepideh, as she harbors hopes of setting her up with Ahmed, who is recently divorced. The gang settles into a ramshackle villa right on the beach, seemingly in for a fun-filled time. On the first day, however, Elly disappears, setting the story into motion.

Its an absolutely brilliant piece of film-work. Despite a slow start, as soon as Elly's disappearance takes place, perhaps 20-30 minutes in, you are absolutely captivated by the story line and the acting. Much like "A Separation", Farhadi (the director-I know I have thrown a lot of names around here) takes a fairly mundane backdrop, throws in a twist, and ends up producing absolute magic. I don't want to give much away here, but will say that the director employs a number of different plot elements to keep the story moving. The reason  I say this is because maybe my more cynical readers are thinking (well, she drowned at sea, boom, mystery over, let's watch The Expendables), but, take my word for it: its not so simple. Watch for yourself. The acting is beyond good: thoroughly convincing, and completely authentic. The actor portraying Peyman played the husband in a "A Separation", and I have come to really enjoy watching him work (the actor's real name is, well, Peyman Moadi). Golshifteh Farahani plays Sepideh, and she is so beautiful it almost hurts watching her. Some of you may recognize her from her first foray into Hollywood, "Body of Lies", where she played Leo Dicaprio's love interest (Leo always gets the lookers). All involved put in solid shifts though, no complaints.

There isn't any action, so choreography really wasn't much of an issue, but let it be said that, as a result of good camera-work and top notch acting, you actually feel like you are there, living the whole experience. Very good stuff. I'll also add, like I did when reviewing "A Separation", that "About Elly" also offers a window into life in Iran, something that remains unavailable to many of us. Not only do you get some shots of parts of Iran outside of the teeming Tehran, but "About Elly" also gives an idea on what Iranians do to get away, how they interact with one another, and how they handle adversity.

Verdict: See it, to pass on "About Elly" would be folly.

Grade: A

If you liked this movie you might also like: Can't think of any American equivalents, I'm really beginning to think that maybe Hollywood flicks really are just crap, I should stop watching so many foreign films. Anyway, "A Separation", if you haven't gathered already, is a good bet. 

Restaurant Review: Pho Mekong House of Noodles

Another week, another ethnic restaurant in central New York. It was my turn to treat Mom and Dad, and we opted for Vietnamese again, this time at Pho Mekong House of Noodles.

Pho Mekong is located on John Street in East Utica, just down the street from the last restaurant visited, Thuy Cafe. Pho Mekong is pretty neat in that it is set in a converted gas station, so it has ample parking space outside, and an oddly shaped interior. Tables, maybe 10 in all, run along the windows in an L-shape. The interior isn't quite as bland as some of my previous forays-photos of the menu items adorn the walls, along with some Southeast Asian art.

Despite the restaurant's full name, the menu isn't just all Pho, or noodle soups. Other Vietnamese rice and noodle dishes can be found as well, along with a smattering of Thai and Cambodian fare, meaning that Pho Mekong's menu is a touch longer than the one at Thuy Cafe. Hot tea is brought along with the menus, a nice touch not found so far at any of Utica's other ethnic restaurants. The menu also features a fairly lengthy list of appetizers, all of them $3.00. We tried the pork wontons for starters. It comes in a very small bowl, really only fit for one person, but we still shared. The wontons are little pork spheres wrapped in fat noodles. They were tasty, though a tad on the salty side. Those with high blood pressure should maybe avoid those.

Being my first time at the place, I figured I should go with its namesake, and chose Pho Ga, a chicken noodle dish. The soups can be gotten in regular, large, and extra large, though you can take my word that regular is adequate even for the healthy eater. Regular bowls start at $6.95. Mom was feeling slightly more adventurous than at Thuy Cafe, and picked the house Pad Thai, while Dad went buck-wild crazy and ordered something called the "Rail Road Fried Rice"-which was fried rice, peppers, shrimp, crab meat, and all kinds of other stuff served inside half of a cored pineapple. No idea why they chose that name (the connection isn't immediately apparent) but I don't think its something you'll see on most American dinner tables. Most items on the menu are under $9, save maybe the Chef's Specials.

Well, once again, everyone was impressed with their meals. The Pho Ga is pretty simple, but it was still properly done. The shredded chicken is high quality, all white meat, the broth was delicious, and of course slurping up the noodles with chopsticks is always fun. Onions and basil can also be found in the soup. A little plate with mint leaves and bean sprouts comes with it so you can add at your leisure, but I don't get into either item. You can try the mint leaves in the soup if you are looking for a rather peculiar taste. Mom's Pad Thai was awesome. She let me polish off what was left of her very sizable serving, and I scarfed it right down. The noodles were a bit different then I've experienced elsewhere, thinner and longer, but it had a nice, smooth peanut-buttery taste. I would put it right on par with the Pad Thai at A7 Asian. Dad's Rail Road Fried Rice not only won style points for presentation, but taste points as well. The fried rice wasn't like the fried rice you find at any Chinese take-out place-it had a sticky, moist consistency. There was all kinds of other things thrown in there, but something called Chinese sausage, diced into little slices and put in the rice, especially caught my attention with its sweet taste. Don't worry, the part of the pineapple that is carved out is also chopped up and also tossed in the mix. When everything was polished off, no extra pineapple could be taken out of the "bowl", it had been cored so precisely.

The dessert menu only advertised "fruits in syrup", so we decided to pass on that. Sorry, I'm not a very astute reviewer, but I don't think we missed much. Overall though, another Asian restaurant has left me and my companions smiling. Pho Mekong was a winner, and, once I have covered all the other ethnic restaurants in my sights, I'll go back for seconds. I give this place a thumbs up.

Grade: 4.5/5 (the wonton soup really could have been a little less salty, and the dessert menu didn't seem very interesting, so a full 5 escapes Pho, but everything else was tip top)

Forgotten Countries of the World

Sorry people, no restaurant or foreign film reviews this weekend, no time could be found for either. However, just to keep you satiated, here is an interesting slideshow from BBC travel:

http://www.bbc.com/travel/slideshow/20120809-forgotten-countries-of-the-world

Many of you may be interested to hear though that a good portion of my time is now being taken up planning for the early September trip to Ireland. Be on the look out for that one, it holds a lot of promise.

Cheers. 

Restaurant Review: Thuy Cafe

Thuy Cafe is a small Vietnamese restaurant located on Bleecker Street, one of the main drags in East Utica. There are a number of Vietnamese joints dotting the greater Utica area (which isn't a very big region), but for a Sunday dinner with Mom, Dad, and my brother Luke, I picked out Thuy as my first foray into the area Vietnamese. I called ahead to see when they would close, and the response I got from the woman on the other end was, I quote, "I close 8". No doubts about the authenticity then. We were in business.

Thuy doesn't look like much from the outside, which is a common theme it seems among the area ethnic restaurants. The large glass windows carried a few advertisements completely in Vietnamese...they didn't even bother with the English. I liked that. Anyway, the interior, which holds maybe 12 four-seated tables, is rather plain, not entirely austere like A7, the Asian joint reviewed last week, but isn't an art show either. The white walls dominant the place. In one corner of the room they did have a little shrine to the Buddha, so you can eat and pay your respects in one go. It is VERY clean though, my mother was quick to point out. The tabletops were spotless, and the glasses we were served our waters in were the cleanest my mother has ever seen in a restaurant. The jury is in then. Wait staff at Thuy are pretty limited, a mother and son team seem to run the place, with one or two helpers.

The menu at Thuy can basically be be divided into soups and rice dishes. Any item can come in either a large or a small, but, I'll tell you, go with the smalls, its more than enough. I have had Vietnamese before (in West Lafayette, Indiana...in a place run by Mexicans, as it were), so am somewhat familiar with it, but not that much. The menu here immediately looked more authentic, so I was excited by the options on hand. Beef and pork noodle soups are a mainstay, and I was in the mood for noodles, so I went for the beef stew. Mom ordered a chicken sautee dish, which was chopped chicken breast mixed with vegetables over vermicelli rice. Luke and Dad both ordered the same thing, an interesting egg roll dish, comprised of chopped pork egg-rolls over vermicelli, with a side of sweet sauce for dipping.

Delicious. Absolutely fantastic. The beef stew went down VERY easy. The noodles were a mixture of rice flour noodles and egg noodles. Both were very good, but  I particularly liked the egg noodles. The flavor is hard to describe, not exactly sweet...maybe a bit yeasty? Hard to say, either way, go for it. Carrots were the dominant vegetable and were cooked to perfection, while the beef was also good, albeit some pieces were a bit fatty. I could drink the broth all day. Not watery or overly thick, just right. If you are a battling a cold during one of Utica's brutal winters, Thuy Cafe might not be a bad place to go to feel better. Mom actually finished her entire plate, a rarity. It was simple, but the chicken was high quality and tasty. The dish chosen by Luke and Dad was a hit though. The chopped egg roll (perfect size for picking up with chopsticks by the way-even Luke got in on the action), was far cry from the egg roll you might get in the dime-a-dozen Chinese take-out places. Nobody knew what the accompanying sauce was, but it served as a perfect dipping sauce for the egg-roll chunks. Luke, one of the pickiest eaters you'll meet (he originally just came along for the ride, he expected to get Subway afterwards, but I coaxed him into expanding his palate a bit) was delighted. That has to tell you something right there.

The only disappointment came afterwards, when we were told no desert menu exists yet. Too busy cranking out the main courses I suppose. No bother. Everyone was satisfied with their choices and also made note that the meal, while filling, didn't leave one on the precipice of a food coma, which is common after eating American style food. The service was quick, given the small staff, and the prices completed the meal. Thirty bucks for four dinners (all smalls, but, again, the young Vietnamese dude that took our order said even he can't finish the large) is pretty hard to beat. Most items on the menu won't run you more the $8.

First taste of Vietnamese, Utica style? I'm happy to say it was more "Good Morning, Vietnam!" and not "Apocalypse Now". Thuy Cafe is a keeper, you'll be able to find me there again.

Score: 4.5/5 (no desert menu means I can't give a full 5) 

Movie Review: Ajami (Israel)

With the busy summer schedule, its been difficult to find time for films. Last night though, I snatched the chance to sit down to "Ajami", a 2009 Israeli film, rented from a local museum's library.

The movie derives its title from the Ajami neighborhood of Tel-Aviv, Israel's largest and most cosmopolitan city. Ajami is a run-down area in the southern reaches of the city that is home primarily to Arab Israelis (Muslim and Christian), and Palestinians, along with a smattering of Jews.  A tense environment, to say the least. "Ajami" follows the stories of four characters whose lives are centered upon the neighborhood: Omar, a Muslim restaurant worker trying to find a way to settle a huge debt all while secretly courting the daughter of his Christian boss; Malek, a Palestinian illegally working in the same restaurant as Omar, trying to earn money to pay for his mother's bone marrow transplant; Dando, a Jewish plain-clothes policeman trying to find a younger brother who never returned home from service in the army; and Binj, friend and co-worker to Malek and Omar, who risks ostracism by his Arab friends for dating a Jewish girl, and eventually finds himself in legal trouble after his younger brother kills a Jew in a dispute. Omar's younger brother, Nasri, occasionally lends narration to the film.

It's an absolutely amazing piece of film-work. The stories of each of the above-mentioned characters are riveting in their own way, but eventually they all converge, rather brilliantly, I thought, in the hectic last few moments of the film. The sequence of events are such that the viewer is left a bit confused and cannot see the entire picture, but in the last half-hour all the important plot elements are revealed, producing several "Ahh, so that's it" moments. Some may find this a bit frustrating, it depends on your preferences, but I prefer such presentation, and the air of anticipation in creates. None of the actors in the film are professional or had acted before, so it gives the film a very documentary-like feel. I read, for instance, that the actor playing Dando is actually a real cop on the Tel-Aviv beat. I wouldn't have it any other way. Such casting gives "Ajami" an intense realism that is necessary for the portrayal of a tinder-box like Ajami. The film is also important because it gives one a sense of what life can be like in the seedier underside of Israel's large cities, far from the pristine beaches, glitzy buildings where diamonds are traded, or the packed tourist attractions.

There were one or two plot elements that, even at the end, I still couldn't make sense of, but nothing so important such that I didn't understand the overall story. The narration of Nasri also seemed a bit pointless and even out-of-place, but he still has some good lines. These are minor worries anyway. "Ajami" will take a few minutes to catch your interest, but it will, straight through to the climax, where those four story-lines come crashing together.

Verdict: See it, definitely. Grade: A

If you liked this movie you might also like: Hollywood flicks like "Babel" and "Crash" also have converging story-lines. "Ajami" is better than "Crash" if you ask me, but "Babel" is one of my favorite movies and still has more quality, but "Ajami" is still worth the comparison.

Restaurant Review: A7 Asian

No....I hadn't forgotten about them. A busy summer, and that minor matter of a trip to Russia, have interrupted my schedule some, but I still have Utica's (and other places) ethnic restaurants in my sights. Last Thursday (apologies for the wait, again, a busy weekend) I hit A7 Asian, located in East Utica. This wasn't my first time to this spot, but it was my first visit back since writing restaurant reviews crept into mind. I went with my friend Mainak, a no-kiddin' Indian (he's from Kolkata, or Calcutta if you prefer the old style....not from the Cherokee tribe). I wanted to see what he thought of the Indian fare.....

.....which is one of the five types of Asian dishes on offer (the first time I went, I thought the 7 in the name referred to seven styles of cuisine, but, on closer inspection, there are only five. So, I have absolutely no idea what the title A7 Asian refers to). The other four are Chinese, Japanese, Burmese, and Thai. The actual setting doesn't look like much. Housed in a square building that, according to my parents,  used to be an Italian restaurant back in the day, the place can be easy to miss, with a small, obscured sign the only indication that it's a functioning business. The interior is more akin to a deli, with simple white walls and maybe twenty sets of table and chairs (four seats to a table). If you are looking for ambiance and a romantic atmosphere, A7 probably isn't your jam. I have no truck with that, but personally it doesn't bother me and, in a way, I rather like such humble surroundings and the rather obvious hole-in-the-wall feel.

But let's get down to way we are really here. I cannot speak to the Chinese or Japanese dishes from the menu, but have sampled the other three styles. For beginners, if you like Pad Thai, than A7 is an absolute must. Its the best Pad Thai I've ever had.....and I've been to Thailand. Meat choices include chicken, beef, squid, crab, and shrimp (though the last three bump the price up $1.00, to $8.50). My first visit to A7 saw me try to just regular Pad Thai with chicken, which I gave a thumbs up, way up. This second time around the proprietor (a nice, quiet young fellow from Burma), having recognized me (unfortunately, and I think due to location, A7 doesn't seem to get may customers), suggested the Burmese Pad Thai. As for that....fantastic recommendation. Both Mainak and I fell in love with the dish. It has a very pronounced peanut-buttery flavor (for lack of a better term) which I couldn't get enough of. Mainak and I tried it with the beef, but I think with any other meat it would still go down real well.

The only other dishes I can give a rating on are both Indian: Chicken Birayni and Tikka Masala. Birayni (it can be served with other meats as well) is a rather simplistic dish of colorful rice and, in this case, a roasted piece of chicken. It seems a pretty hard thing to screw up, and I have enjoyed it both times. The chicken is tasty, not overly spiced, but not bland either. For those not in the know, Tikka Masala is some form of meat served in a creamy, spicy tomato sauce mixed with onion and pepper. Now, I like this dish quite a bit. I have only had it at A7, so have no means of comparison. Some may find the sauce a bit heavy, but I like such sauces, and it goes well with naan (Indian bread, be sure to order some, its a must at A7). Unfortunately we ran into a bit of a problem here with Mainak. Now, on the menu (Tikka Masala is listed under "Curry", and is one of the more expensive items, at $10.99) both lamb and goat are offered. Mainak was elated when he saw this, declaring goat was his favorite dish, but it was difficult to find in the States. He did say that it was common for places to put it on the menu, but just serve lamb in its place. I'm sure you can see where this is going. The Masala tasted good, but Mainak was convinced it was actually lamb, instead of the goat we ordered. The Burmese owner insisted it was in fact goat, and was apologetic. Again, there was no issue with the taste, it was very good for lamb.....its just that it wasn't goat.

For desert we tried two different items. First I ordered something called Lassi, an Indian desert drink made from yogurt mixed with pulp from fruit. I got a Mango Lassi and, yeah, its really good. You will feel like a fat mess after drinking it, but don't worry about the food guilt, Mango Lassi is where its at. As for the other desert, Indian pastries (one a mixture of chocolate and vanilla, the other pistachio), don't even bother. The owner admitted they just have it shipped from New York City, and they obviously were not fresh.

Price-wise A7 is decent, but not as cheap as the first place reviewed here, Sunny Asian. Again, the curry dishes will run you the most, but everything else falls between the $6-9 range. For the quality of the food, which, save the deserts, is very good, you really can't complain.

Now, A7 has become a firm favorite of mine, but it isn't without its faults. I find the food delicious, but the incident with the lamb/goat was disappointing. I trust Mainak's instincts on this one, he would eat goat meat often while growing up in eastern India, so I suspect that it was just lamb that we were served. Also the deserts were a 50/50 split, with the Lassi to die for, while the pastries were, well, not. In the most important categories though, A7 still scores well. Overall I enthusiastically recommend this place, just with a couple of caveats.

Score: 4.5/5

Russia Rewind: Last Day

My final day in Moscow, and Russia, we decided to take it easy, the action from the previous days having caught up with us. Vanya and I rousted late and had a slow breakfast. We then set out to the market that surrounded the nearby Metro stop, so I could pick up some gifts to bring home (cookies, chocolates, and some vodka. Sounds like a party). We also made one last stop at a bakery run by a couple of guys from Uzbekistan we had been frequenting, to get some of their delicious flat-bread for the next day's breakfast (I have to say..based on the baked goods, Uzbekistan might be worth a shout).

In the afternoon we met up with another Moscow-based friend of Vanya's. Stanislav (or Stas..and yes, same as Vanya's pops) is a highly-ranked practitioner of Wushu, a type of martial art. Built like a brick house, Stas looked a bit like Tom Cruise and dressed like a pimp. We met him at a nearby mall for some conversation over smoothies (very macho, I know). His English was pretty decent, and he was really curious about things in the states, particularly NYC. His girlfriend, a professional ballerina (an interesting cast of characters I collected there in Russia) showed up later on. She couldn't communicate with me, but provided an iPad to show us a sample of her performances, as well as a glimpse of Stas' exploits at competitions.

After parting ways with them we still had a bit of time left in the day. We kicked around the idea of trying to find a good, high location to look over the city, but the experience we had with Sixty dissuaded us. We decided to go back to Sparrow Hills. Our first time there was a bit rushed, and it was a nice evening, anyway. We made our way there and placed ourselves on the wall (the one we are photographed in front of earlier on, with the German dude in the biking gear), at first chatting while looking over Russia's capital city as the sun began to set, and then turning around to partake in some people watching. People were out in force to kick off the start of the weekend, and even a couple of bachelorette parties walked past to liven up the scenes a bit. The trip had taken place at such break-neck speed that I hadn't had a chance to do much people watching. So it was fitting that the final day there I could sit back with my good pal and watch Russian life take its course. Eventually we took a look at the time and figured we better make for the Metro. I had a flight to catch.

So, what to say? Russia is going to go down in Four Corners' lore as a momentous experience. Being with locals-having them show me their cities, experiencing their lives, eating what they eat, witnessing their outlets of entertainment, and watching their interactions with each other-was an entirely new experience for this traveler, and certainly one that I won't forget. I have made a number of attempts to make my thanks known to Vanya, Alice, Nika, Galina (his mother, in case I forgot to mention her name), and Stas, but I still feel it is all inadequate. I think Galina has earned special thanks...her culinary skills made this adventure the best in terms of food. Welcoming me with open arms into her come was about as much as a journeyman like myself can ask for. Their treatment of me and their kindness was a warm reminder of why I do what I do....traverse the globe, constantly in search of new experiences, new insights, and new friends. Without them I don't know if I could have added those pins on my map: Russia does feel like it has some way to come before it is a truly hospitable tourist environment. This of course is the product of language barriers, byzantine bureaucracy, and politics. The people, as the Rymars (geez, I don't know if I ever mentioned Vanya's surname) have shown, are certainly not the issue. Beyond helping me experience their country though, Vanya and co. nearly got me choked with their generosity and hospitality. I hope they know that they have a home, wherever I may find myself.

Look below for one last photo from the trip. Next up is Ireland in September. With luck, the internet situation will be more conducive to nightly updates. I hope to have you along then, but of course, be sure to look in at your leisure for anything else I can conjure up.

The sun sets on Moscow, and another adventure.

Russia Rewind: Part Four

Thursday, my second to last day in Russia, was action-packed and fun-filled.

Vanya and I (Nika left the night before on the late train back to St. Petersburg) set out early in the direction of Red Square. We hoped to take another crack at entering the Kremlin, and also to check out Lenin's Tomb, situated in Red Square. When we emerged from the Metro stop, we saw no lines in front of the Kremlin, and no one at the ticket office. Wow, must be our lucky day. You get here early enough, you beat the crowds....wait....hold on a sec...

Yeah, the Kremlin is closed on Thursdays, apparently. A sign on the ticket office window confirmed as much. It wasn't just that all the other tourists were sleeping in. So much for it being our lucky day. Disappointing, but you can't have everything I suppose. We moved on to Comrade Lenin's resting place. Well, that's where the rest of Moscow's tourists had congregated. A huge line had formed, awaiting entry. A Chinese tourist bus had just unloaded in the area, so many of those ahead of us were of Chinese persuasion. Despite the long line, it moved quickly enough-they keep you constantly moving through the mausoleum and past the grave sites of other Soviet greats (Joe Stalin found a place outside the mausoleum), and there is no need to buy a ticket, so things move along, though no photo or videos are allowed.

Upon entry into the tomb you are immediately greeted by a guard who puts his finger to his mouth with a curt "shhh!" to let you know how to behave. Don't wake Lenin up. You descend some steps into the cool interior, and pass by two more guards performing the same action, until you finally come to the glass enclosure holding the father of Russian Communism. Or something like that. I have my doubts about how realistic the whole situation is. The body looks like its mainly wax. Well, I guess I couldn't blame them if that is the case, the guy has been on the other side for quite some time now. Anyway, you have to keep moving around the glass tomb, I noticed many of the older, male Chinese tourists were bowing in reverence to the man. It was all very quiet as Vanya and I were walking through, but of course the silence was shattered by some obnoxious Chinese lady talking in a loud voice to a friend, a chorus of "shhhs" were aimed in her direction by the guards.

So after that rather surreal experience we continued on. First stop was a quick peak at Lubyanka Square, home to the headquarters of the now-defunct KGB. Its successor organization, the FSB, now uses the building. My peculiar interests in history made me want to at least see the place in person. We didn't dawdle long, next stop was Komsomolskaya Metro station. Located in the northern part of the city, Komsomolskaya is considered to be the most interesting of the Moscow Metro stations. At first I was a bit perplexed, the platform we stepped onto wasn't all the exciting, but moving on to switch lines, we found what was akin to a mini-museum. I was also glad to hit this point because, the square outside of Komsomolskaya is known as Three Stations, as there are three railroad stations located in close proximity in the area. This place served as a prominent setting in a book by Martin Cruz Smith called, well, "Three Stations". I recommend it to all FCers who enjoy a good read.

Komsomolskaya wasn't too far from a place called VDNH. VDNH is a massive park across from the famous Cosmos Hotel. It used to serve as a pavilion filled with exhibitions from all the Soviet Republics. Now it is just a massive park with an amusement park, food stalls, a large fountain, and just a place to hang out. Many of the kitsch monuments and buildings remain though. We scoped it, but the midday heat was beginning to get to us, and Vanya suggested taking  a seat on the grass, in the shade.....we both ended up corking off and taking naps. Waking up refreshed and with recharged batteries, we walked about a bit more, and then set off to meet up with Gresha.

Gresha, or Gregori, if you want his full name, was an acquaintance of Vanya's from our days in China, but he is from Moscow and was around because of summer break from school. We met him at a metro stop and headed towards Victory Square. He and I became quick pals. His English was very good, and, with the China connection, we have similar interests. He is also studying International Relations, which of course was my field. It was a bit of hike to Victory Square, but the three of us chatted constantly the whole way. Upon our arrival to the massive public space (named for the defeat of Napoleon's forces), we were pretty baked from the sun. Luckily, a number of large fountains dotted the area, and Vanya took the initiative to hop in one and cool off. Several other locals were doing it, so I figured, when in Rome......

Unfortunately we didn't have a photo taken of us frolicking in the water, I was afraid my camera might get wet, but, again, can't have everything. We took the metro back into the city center where Gresha pointed out to me the Bolshoi Theater and the State Duma, or the Russian congress. Searching for ideas on what to do next, Gresha stated that Moscovites like to hit up a supermarket for some beers and then go and drink them in Gorky Park, one of the more famous public areas in Moscow. He acknowledged that such public drinking was illegal but, if the police show up "you just give them some money and they go away". So....we aren't in Whitesboro anymore then?

Despite the questionable legality, that is what we did. And boy am I glad we did. Fortified with drinks, we found a comfy spot on the grass to hydrate (or something like that) and chat about whatever was on our minds. Girls were the main subject of conversation though. Hey, for three guys, what better topic is there? I thought it was awesome, hanging with some locals, enjoying life as they do. Doesn't get any bigger than that.

The day wasn't over quite yet though. After getting off our lazy asses and cutting through the rest of Gorky Park, we walked along the Moskva River to our final destination. Gresha knew the best spot, a bridge (the name of which I didn't catch) to get a view into the Kremlin. It was a bit of a walk, maybe twenty minutes, but we found the spot, only occupied to two older Russian women, so we didn't have to battle for photo ops. We had fun snapping pictures there, trying to make the best use of the dying daylight.  I also felt a little bit better about missing out on the Kremlin. The view from the bridge really was very good, one can catch a decent glimpse of the cathedrals within the walls.

But, like all good things, this day had to come to an end. We walked to the nearest Metro stop together, and there Gresha said his goodbyes to Vanya and I. I won't forget his contribution to the experience, and hope to see him again soon.

Well, I told you, Thursday was a busy one. I hope you still have time to check out some photos:

Vanya and I give proof that we have seen St. Basil's.

Mural in Komsomolskaya Metro station

The station's interior

Gresha joins the fun in Victory Square. We are obscuring the word "MOCKBA" (pronounced Moskva)

Activity in Gorky Park

Having some fun by the Moskva River in Gorky Park

A bohemian-looking district on the other side of the River

The lady taking the photo suggested we let loose a bit.

Vanya later admitted he was bit afraid when attempting to balance so high up.

Your Correspondent and the Kremlin.

Russia Rewind: Part Three

So, the third day in Moscow (second full day), was a bit more subdued, as I mentioned earlier. The entire first part of the day was spent in Moscow's Planetarium. Again, this was Vanya's big thing, and, since he was treating me like a brother, I was more than happy to go along. Vanya's pops had a friend there, so the three of us got in for free. It was pretty neat....I think. The entire experience was in Russian, save for English translations on some exhibits, so it didn't really do me much good. We took in a couple of shows (including a 3D experience), but again, no Angliski for this American.  Oh well, Vanya was having a ball, he eats up the astronomy stuff. 

With the day already well into the afternoon, we decided for one more stop before heading back to our place of stay. So, the night before, this guy we met at Sparrow Hills (he can actually be seen in the photo in the last post of Stas, Nika, and myself at the spot-he's the one wearing a rather unbecoming biking outfit), who was in fact an employee of the German Embassy, recommended that we go to this area called Moscow City. Now, Moscow City is this cluster of high-rises (many of which are not even complete) outside the city center that is home to hotels, shopping plazas, and businesses. Our German friend said that there is restaurant called Sixty (located on the sixtieth floor of a hotel there) that offered the best views of the city. Pretty sound advice, so we went for that after the Planetarium.

We decided to walk it, and it took a good half-hour, forty-five minutes. No worries, all for a good cause. Eventually we came into the forest of gleaming skyscrapers, but had to ask around for the place in question (German fellow couldn't remember the hotel name). After finally getting solid directions, we cut through a shopping plaza, where a security guard, apparently not enthralled with our VERY casual clothing (t-shirts and shorts...everyone else around us was wearing expensive looking articles-Moscow City is the playground of the rich and famous) kept a close eye on us the entire time we walked through. Well, we came into the lobby of the building we were directed towards and, lo-and-behold, Sixty had a representative there, waiting to greet potential diners (very fancy). Now, I can't understand much Russian (read: nearly none) but I could tell from the conversation that Vanya and Nika had with the woman that we would not be taking in this grand view. They gave me the reason: pants. You have to be wearing pants in order to enter Sixty. So, we came, didn't really see, definitely didn't conquer. As we left the lobby we noticed the parking lot out front was filled with Mercedes, Rolls-Royce, BMW, Audi, and other fine automobiles. Fucking rich people, discriminating against the pants-less.

OK, so that was the cliff-hangar that I left you guys with from that day. Alright, it wasn't edge-of-your-seat stuff, but, it was a real bummer to walk all the way there, in anticipation of an awesome view, only to be told our attire wasn't up to snuff. Restaurant Sixty, you are dead to me. 

But, the evening would eventually end on a high note. After dinner and a rest back at our construction site, Stas drove Nika, one of his co-workers (Sergei, who seemed pretty cool, despite the fact we needed a translator on hand to communicate), and myself (Vanya was beat, and stayed back to get some rest) to Tsaritsyno Park, a massive public space in the south of the city. Apparently the land used to be part of a estate belonging to a Tsarina. There is a former palace on the grounds (which might be a museum now) as well as a large fountain where people were enjoying the evening and listening to music (I don't know where it was coming from, but it sounded as if it was being piped in from somewhere). Anyway, it was an absolutely gorgeous evening, perfect for taking a stroll. I kept to conversation primarily with Nika (I may have mentioned it, but her English was tip-top) but occasionally Stas or Sergei (through Nika) would throw a question about the US my way (Russians, or at least the ones I interacted with, are very interested in the United States...particularly New York City. I made it known that I was most definitively not from NYC, but that didn't stop them asking me detailed questions about it). At 2300 the fountain went out, signalling the park would be closing, and we headed back to the car.

And so completed the day. The next day was probably the busiest of them all, so be sure to come back tomorrow for all the action. Until then, some photos:

The trio inside the Moscow Planetarium

Vanya catches some ping-pong action in a park on the way to Moscow City

One of Moscow City's futuristic skyscrapers: Pants Required

The friendly Sergei joined us for an evening in the park. The former palace is in the background

The lights of Tsaritsyno Park's fountain.

Stas gets a laugh out of us while fumbling with the camera.