Thursday, my second to last day in Russia, was action-packed and fun-filled.
Vanya and I (Nika left the night before on the late train back to St. Petersburg) set out early in the direction of Red Square. We hoped to take another crack at entering the Kremlin, and also to check out Lenin's Tomb, situated in Red Square. When we emerged from the Metro stop, we saw no lines in front of the Kremlin, and no one at the ticket office. Wow, must be our lucky day. You get here early enough, you beat the crowds....wait....hold on a sec...
Yeah, the Kremlin is closed on Thursdays, apparently. A sign on the ticket office window confirmed as much. It wasn't just that all the other tourists were sleeping in. So much for it being our lucky day. Disappointing, but you can't have everything I suppose. We moved on to Comrade Lenin's resting place. Well, that's where the rest of Moscow's tourists had congregated. A huge line had formed, awaiting entry. A Chinese tourist bus had just unloaded in the area, so many of those ahead of us were of Chinese persuasion. Despite the long line, it moved quickly enough-they keep you constantly moving through the mausoleum and past the grave sites of other Soviet greats (Joe Stalin found a place outside the mausoleum), and there is no need to buy a ticket, so things move along, though no photo or videos are allowed.
Upon entry into the tomb you are immediately greeted by a guard who puts his finger to his mouth with a curt "shhh!" to let you know how to behave. Don't wake Lenin up. You descend some steps into the cool interior, and pass by two more guards performing the same action, until you finally come to the glass enclosure holding the father of Russian Communism. Or something like that. I have my doubts about how realistic the whole situation is. The body looks like its mainly wax. Well, I guess I couldn't blame them if that is the case, the guy has been on the other side for quite some time now. Anyway, you have to keep moving around the glass tomb, I noticed many of the older, male Chinese tourists were bowing in reverence to the man. It was all very quiet as Vanya and I were walking through, but of course the silence was shattered by some obnoxious Chinese lady talking in a loud voice to a friend, a chorus of "shhhs" were aimed in her direction by the guards.
So after that rather surreal experience we continued on. First stop was a quick peak at Lubyanka Square, home to the headquarters of the now-defunct KGB. Its successor organization, the FSB, now uses the building. My peculiar interests in history made me want to at least see the place in person. We didn't dawdle long, next stop was Komsomolskaya Metro station. Located in the northern part of the city, Komsomolskaya is considered to be the most interesting of the Moscow Metro stations. At first I was a bit perplexed, the platform we stepped onto wasn't all the exciting, but moving on to switch lines, we found what was akin to a mini-museum. I was also glad to hit this point because, the square outside of Komsomolskaya is known as Three Stations, as there are three railroad stations located in close proximity in the area. This place served as a prominent setting in a book by Martin Cruz Smith called, well, "Three Stations". I recommend it to all FCers who enjoy a good read.
Komsomolskaya wasn't too far from a place called VDNH. VDNH is a massive park across from the famous Cosmos Hotel. It used to serve as a pavilion filled with exhibitions from all the Soviet Republics. Now it is just a massive park with an amusement park, food stalls, a large fountain, and just a place to hang out. Many of the kitsch monuments and buildings remain though. We scoped it, but the midday heat was beginning to get to us, and Vanya suggested taking a seat on the grass, in the shade.....we both ended up corking off and taking naps. Waking up refreshed and with recharged batteries, we walked about a bit more, and then set off to meet up with Gresha.
Gresha, or Gregori, if you want his full name, was an acquaintance of Vanya's from our days in China, but he is from Moscow and was around because of summer break from school. We met him at a metro stop and headed towards Victory Square. He and I became quick pals. His English was very good, and, with the China connection, we have similar interests. He is also studying International Relations, which of course was my field. It was a bit of hike to Victory Square, but the three of us chatted constantly the whole way. Upon our arrival to the massive public space (named for the defeat of Napoleon's forces), we were pretty baked from the sun. Luckily, a number of large fountains dotted the area, and Vanya took the initiative to hop in one and cool off. Several other locals were doing it, so I figured, when in Rome......
Unfortunately we didn't have a photo taken of us frolicking in the water, I was afraid my camera might get wet, but, again, can't have everything. We took the metro back into the city center where Gresha pointed out to me the Bolshoi Theater and the State Duma, or the Russian congress. Searching for ideas on what to do next, Gresha stated that Moscovites like to hit up a supermarket for some beers and then go and drink them in Gorky Park, one of the more famous public areas in Moscow. He acknowledged that such public drinking was illegal but, if the police show up "you just give them some money and they go away". So....we aren't in Whitesboro anymore then?
Despite the questionable legality, that is what we did. And boy am I glad we did. Fortified with drinks, we found a comfy spot on the grass to hydrate (or something like that) and chat about whatever was on our minds. Girls were the main subject of conversation though. Hey, for three guys, what better topic is there? I thought it was awesome, hanging with some locals, enjoying life as they do. Doesn't get any bigger than that.
The day wasn't over quite yet though. After getting off our lazy asses and cutting through the rest of Gorky Park, we walked along the Moskva River to our final destination. Gresha knew the best spot, a bridge (the name of which I didn't catch) to get a view into the Kremlin. It was a bit of a walk, maybe twenty minutes, but we found the spot, only occupied to two older Russian women, so we didn't have to battle for photo ops. We had fun snapping pictures there, trying to make the best use of the dying daylight. I also felt a little bit better about missing out on the Kremlin. The view from the bridge really was very good, one can catch a decent glimpse of the cathedrals within the walls.
But, like all good things, this day had to come to an end. We walked to the nearest Metro stop together, and there Gresha said his goodbyes to Vanya and I. I won't forget his contribution to the experience, and hope to see him again soon.
Well, I told you, Thursday was a busy one. I hope you still have time to check out some photos:
Vanya and I (Nika left the night before on the late train back to St. Petersburg) set out early in the direction of Red Square. We hoped to take another crack at entering the Kremlin, and also to check out Lenin's Tomb, situated in Red Square. When we emerged from the Metro stop, we saw no lines in front of the Kremlin, and no one at the ticket office. Wow, must be our lucky day. You get here early enough, you beat the crowds....wait....hold on a sec...
Yeah, the Kremlin is closed on Thursdays, apparently. A sign on the ticket office window confirmed as much. It wasn't just that all the other tourists were sleeping in. So much for it being our lucky day. Disappointing, but you can't have everything I suppose. We moved on to Comrade Lenin's resting place. Well, that's where the rest of Moscow's tourists had congregated. A huge line had formed, awaiting entry. A Chinese tourist bus had just unloaded in the area, so many of those ahead of us were of Chinese persuasion. Despite the long line, it moved quickly enough-they keep you constantly moving through the mausoleum and past the grave sites of other Soviet greats (Joe Stalin found a place outside the mausoleum), and there is no need to buy a ticket, so things move along, though no photo or videos are allowed.
Upon entry into the tomb you are immediately greeted by a guard who puts his finger to his mouth with a curt "shhh!" to let you know how to behave. Don't wake Lenin up. You descend some steps into the cool interior, and pass by two more guards performing the same action, until you finally come to the glass enclosure holding the father of Russian Communism. Or something like that. I have my doubts about how realistic the whole situation is. The body looks like its mainly wax. Well, I guess I couldn't blame them if that is the case, the guy has been on the other side for quite some time now. Anyway, you have to keep moving around the glass tomb, I noticed many of the older, male Chinese tourists were bowing in reverence to the man. It was all very quiet as Vanya and I were walking through, but of course the silence was shattered by some obnoxious Chinese lady talking in a loud voice to a friend, a chorus of "shhhs" were aimed in her direction by the guards.
So after that rather surreal experience we continued on. First stop was a quick peak at Lubyanka Square, home to the headquarters of the now-defunct KGB. Its successor organization, the FSB, now uses the building. My peculiar interests in history made me want to at least see the place in person. We didn't dawdle long, next stop was Komsomolskaya Metro station. Located in the northern part of the city, Komsomolskaya is considered to be the most interesting of the Moscow Metro stations. At first I was a bit perplexed, the platform we stepped onto wasn't all the exciting, but moving on to switch lines, we found what was akin to a mini-museum. I was also glad to hit this point because, the square outside of Komsomolskaya is known as Three Stations, as there are three railroad stations located in close proximity in the area. This place served as a prominent setting in a book by Martin Cruz Smith called, well, "Three Stations". I recommend it to all FCers who enjoy a good read.
Komsomolskaya wasn't too far from a place called VDNH. VDNH is a massive park across from the famous Cosmos Hotel. It used to serve as a pavilion filled with exhibitions from all the Soviet Republics. Now it is just a massive park with an amusement park, food stalls, a large fountain, and just a place to hang out. Many of the kitsch monuments and buildings remain though. We scoped it, but the midday heat was beginning to get to us, and Vanya suggested taking a seat on the grass, in the shade.....we both ended up corking off and taking naps. Waking up refreshed and with recharged batteries, we walked about a bit more, and then set off to meet up with Gresha.
Gresha, or Gregori, if you want his full name, was an acquaintance of Vanya's from our days in China, but he is from Moscow and was around because of summer break from school. We met him at a metro stop and headed towards Victory Square. He and I became quick pals. His English was very good, and, with the China connection, we have similar interests. He is also studying International Relations, which of course was my field. It was a bit of hike to Victory Square, but the three of us chatted constantly the whole way. Upon our arrival to the massive public space (named for the defeat of Napoleon's forces), we were pretty baked from the sun. Luckily, a number of large fountains dotted the area, and Vanya took the initiative to hop in one and cool off. Several other locals were doing it, so I figured, when in Rome......
Unfortunately we didn't have a photo taken of us frolicking in the water, I was afraid my camera might get wet, but, again, can't have everything. We took the metro back into the city center where Gresha pointed out to me the Bolshoi Theater and the State Duma, or the Russian congress. Searching for ideas on what to do next, Gresha stated that Moscovites like to hit up a supermarket for some beers and then go and drink them in Gorky Park, one of the more famous public areas in Moscow. He acknowledged that such public drinking was illegal but, if the police show up "you just give them some money and they go away". So....we aren't in Whitesboro anymore then?
Despite the questionable legality, that is what we did. And boy am I glad we did. Fortified with drinks, we found a comfy spot on the grass to hydrate (or something like that) and chat about whatever was on our minds. Girls were the main subject of conversation though. Hey, for three guys, what better topic is there? I thought it was awesome, hanging with some locals, enjoying life as they do. Doesn't get any bigger than that.
The day wasn't over quite yet though. After getting off our lazy asses and cutting through the rest of Gorky Park, we walked along the Moskva River to our final destination. Gresha knew the best spot, a bridge (the name of which I didn't catch) to get a view into the Kremlin. It was a bit of a walk, maybe twenty minutes, but we found the spot, only occupied to two older Russian women, so we didn't have to battle for photo ops. We had fun snapping pictures there, trying to make the best use of the dying daylight. I also felt a little bit better about missing out on the Kremlin. The view from the bridge really was very good, one can catch a decent glimpse of the cathedrals within the walls.
But, like all good things, this day had to come to an end. We walked to the nearest Metro stop together, and there Gresha said his goodbyes to Vanya and I. I won't forget his contribution to the experience, and hope to see him again soon.
Well, I told you, Thursday was a busy one. I hope you still have time to check out some photos:
Vanya and I give proof that we have seen St. Basil's.
Mural in Komsomolskaya Metro station
The station's interior
Gresha joins the fun in Victory Square. We are obscuring the word "MOCKBA" (pronounced Moskva)
Activity in Gorky Park
Having some fun by the Moskva River in Gorky Park
A bohemian-looking district on the other side of the River
The lady taking the photo suggested we let loose a bit.
Vanya later admitted he was bit afraid when attempting to balance so high up.
Your Correspondent and the Kremlin.
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