BA. Day Three. Recoleta. Recolata is the barrio bordering Congresso and Tribunales (CT from now on, I am getting tired of writing that out) to the north. Recoleta is one of the more ritzier parts of the city (the southern part, which I have explored the past two days, is the older, more historic part, while the north is the more modern, upscale barrios) and it definitely shows. You could be forgiven for foregetting that you were still in South America, as Recoleta looks very much like European cities such as Paris or Vienna (this is BA, 'case y'all forgot!). Despite not being as architecturally interesting as the south and lacking some of the history, there are still some cool things to see/do in this area.
The Cemetario de Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetary you knobs). The guidebook billed this as the not-to-miss thing to do in Recoleta, so I set off for there first (the street I am staying on, Junin, leads right down to it, a bit of a walk though). The guidebook was right (still waiting on that advertisment money), the cemetary is most definitely worth seeing (side note: my brother Luke is always getting on my parents' case for finding the Forest Lawn cemetary in Buffalo, NY a cool place, and it is. Well, here is some more proof that cemetaries can be interesting places to visit. Luke, watch this space). The cemetary in Recoleta is known for being the burial place of some of Argentina's most important historical figures, politicians, musicians, actors, etc, including one Eva Peron, maybe you have heard of her (known for her uncanny likeness to Madonna). None of the graves in the cemetary are your run-of-the-mill, bury-me-in-the ground type graves, but instead all our masoleums (Again, mainly famous persons, no paupers in these grounds). The row-upon-row of masoluems, some of which have spectacular designs and others as big as small churches, give the feeling that one is walking along in a small neighborhood.....except all the residents are dead. Very very neat. I walked around a bit myself, but today must have been my lucky today, because Tuesday is one of the days for free English guided tours. I gathered with the rest of the camera toting-, baseball cap wearing- sweating like pimps in a church (it was scorcher today)-tourists at the front of the cemetary. I kind of half paid attention to the guide, it was hard to hear her with every one around, but got some info I wouldn't have otherwise gotten. I mainly used the tour to get to the Eva Peron tomb, which probably to your surprise is a very simple one tucked in a narrow row, making it hard to find.
After spending a couple of hours in the cemetary I stepped out, grabbed a delicious sausage sandwhich from some dudes outside and set off to stroll around the area. There are also alot of green spaces in Recoleta, bring your dog out for a walk seems like a popular thing to do here. Again, cafes, expensive looking stores and restaurants abound in this barrio. I eventually made my way to a place called El Ateneo Grand Splendid. That sounds like a pretty imposing name, but it is fitting. Lonely Planet calls it possibly one of the greatest bookstores in the world, and I won't be one to argue (what, no love for Barnes and Noble in Whitesboro?!). This bookstore was built in an old opera theater. Very cool. The balconies are lined with bookshelves, the private boxes now serve as reading areas, and a cafe was built on what used to be the stage. Now, if all the books were in English......
I took an hour or so rest, I think the beating sun did a number on me, then set back out to explore the area a little more. I made my way to the Biblioteca National (I will let you guess what that means), which now looks pretty beat but has an interesting design. I didn't go in, I found the design to be interesting enough. This was also the spot where Eva and General Peron used to live, but after they both died anti-Peronists (jeolous of her Madonna-like looks) knocked the home down and used the space to build the library. There is know a statue of her out front now though.
There is a large park next to the library, Plaza Mitre, where people were sitting and letting their dogs run about. I sat down to take a sip of water, and noticed a large group of "urban ninjas" plying their trade by a staircase. They looked a bit younger then me, but some of the back flips and jumps they were performing were pretty damn impressive, I wouldn't attempt any of them for fear of breaking my neck. I gave the "speed photo" option on my camera a try and photographed these hombres somersaulting off of the staircase and doing backflips over paths.
I ambled back towards my hotel through Recoleta, again feeling quite impressed at the modernity and upscale nature of the barrio. As dusk approached, the hordes began to get out of work at the streets became packed. It was neat to feel part of the BA rat-race, or at least the reverse rat race.
Need to grab a little something to eat and then call it a night. There will be more BA manana.
The Cemetario de Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetary you knobs). The guidebook billed this as the not-to-miss thing to do in Recoleta, so I set off for there first (the street I am staying on, Junin, leads right down to it, a bit of a walk though). The guidebook was right (still waiting on that advertisment money), the cemetary is most definitely worth seeing (side note: my brother Luke is always getting on my parents' case for finding the Forest Lawn cemetary in Buffalo, NY a cool place, and it is. Well, here is some more proof that cemetaries can be interesting places to visit. Luke, watch this space). The cemetary in Recoleta is known for being the burial place of some of Argentina's most important historical figures, politicians, musicians, actors, etc, including one Eva Peron, maybe you have heard of her (known for her uncanny likeness to Madonna). None of the graves in the cemetary are your run-of-the-mill, bury-me-in-the ground type graves, but instead all our masoleums (Again, mainly famous persons, no paupers in these grounds). The row-upon-row of masoluems, some of which have spectacular designs and others as big as small churches, give the feeling that one is walking along in a small neighborhood.....except all the residents are dead. Very very neat. I walked around a bit myself, but today must have been my lucky today, because Tuesday is one of the days for free English guided tours. I gathered with the rest of the camera toting-, baseball cap wearing- sweating like pimps in a church (it was scorcher today)-tourists at the front of the cemetary. I kind of half paid attention to the guide, it was hard to hear her with every one around, but got some info I wouldn't have otherwise gotten. I mainly used the tour to get to the Eva Peron tomb, which probably to your surprise is a very simple one tucked in a narrow row, making it hard to find.
After spending a couple of hours in the cemetary I stepped out, grabbed a delicious sausage sandwhich from some dudes outside and set off to stroll around the area. There are also alot of green spaces in Recoleta, bring your dog out for a walk seems like a popular thing to do here. Again, cafes, expensive looking stores and restaurants abound in this barrio. I eventually made my way to a place called El Ateneo Grand Splendid. That sounds like a pretty imposing name, but it is fitting. Lonely Planet calls it possibly one of the greatest bookstores in the world, and I won't be one to argue (what, no love for Barnes and Noble in Whitesboro?!). This bookstore was built in an old opera theater. Very cool. The balconies are lined with bookshelves, the private boxes now serve as reading areas, and a cafe was built on what used to be the stage. Now, if all the books were in English......
I took an hour or so rest, I think the beating sun did a number on me, then set back out to explore the area a little more. I made my way to the Biblioteca National (I will let you guess what that means), which now looks pretty beat but has an interesting design. I didn't go in, I found the design to be interesting enough. This was also the spot where Eva and General Peron used to live, but after they both died anti-Peronists (jeolous of her Madonna-like looks) knocked the home down and used the space to build the library. There is know a statue of her out front now though.
There is a large park next to the library, Plaza Mitre, where people were sitting and letting their dogs run about. I sat down to take a sip of water, and noticed a large group of "urban ninjas" plying their trade by a staircase. They looked a bit younger then me, but some of the back flips and jumps they were performing were pretty damn impressive, I wouldn't attempt any of them for fear of breaking my neck. I gave the "speed photo" option on my camera a try and photographed these hombres somersaulting off of the staircase and doing backflips over paths.
I ambled back towards my hotel through Recoleta, again feeling quite impressed at the modernity and upscale nature of the barrio. As dusk approached, the hordes began to get out of work at the streets became packed. It was neat to feel part of the BA rat-race, or at least the reverse rat race.
Need to grab a little something to eat and then call it a night. There will be more BA manana.
No comments:
Post a Comment