The first full day in Jerusalem was a long one. I set out for Jerusalem's most famous area, the Old City. The city packs a lot into its relatively small area within the city walls, housing quarters for all three of the major religions. I did the Western (or Wailing) Wall first, where I was required to put on a yarmulke. There really is much to the wall itself, but all of the Jews praying around it is pretty cool. Again, they really get into it. I touched the Wall anyway, so I can be like, yeah, I've touched the Western Wall. After that I strolled around the Jewish Quarter a little bit, where one shop keeper asked me to write in English for him that he was selling everything at half-price, so he could later make a sign. He promised me a glass of tea for my trouble. I figured this was a scam just to get me in his shop, but I went along. Sure enough, I got the tea (very good by the way) and while sipping away he encouraged me to buy some items. Looks like I was right. I politely refused his offers and finished up and left. He wasn't so friendly when I left without buying anything. Thanks for the free tea sucker. I made my way to the Dome of the Rock, where some not-so-friendly soldiers informed me to come back at 12:30, it was closed for prayers, alright, I can do that.
I moved on to some other sites, and was eventually stopped by two rabbis, kindly asking my name and home country. One of them shook and held my hand and said a prayer over me. I couldn't understand the Hebrew, but I figure whatever he said, I got that going for me. When he finished he duly asked me for money. Sorry, nothing giving rabbi. Thanks for the free prayer though, sucker. From there I did a lot, the Mount Zion, which housed the building where the Last Supper (allegedly) took place and a Holocaust museum, and from there I went to the grave of Oskar Schindler, which took a few minutes to find. I eventually did the Dome of the Rock, but non-Muslims are no longer allowed in the Mosque, so I just stuck to checking out the outside. To get to the Dome you take a bridge from the Western Wall. Along the bridge were some riot shields stacked up, just in case. Apparently things can get pretty hot in the plaza around the Dome. I only visited briefly, however, the area closed again at 1:30, and I was kicked out along with the rest of the foreigners.
After the Dome of the Rock I went for the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I had heard of the church before, but didn't really know its significance. When I walked in all these people were gathered around a stone slab, kneeling down to touch it and rub random items on it (one lady was using her groceries). Right, so this must be a fairly important place. I stepped outside to check out the guide book and, yeah, pretty big for Christians. The church is built on the site believed to be of Christ's crucifixion. The aforementioned stone slab was apparently where Jesus was laid and wrapped in cloth before burial. A nearby set of stairs led to an altar built on the stone of Golgotha, the site of the cross. People lined up to kneel and prayer and kiss the altar. A large stone can be seen below glass below the altar. Nearby in the church (the church is pretty big, you might have guessed) was the site of Jesus' supposed burial. A tomb had been built around it and lots of people lined up to go in and get a view. I didn't want to wait around, so just settled for the outside.
Afterward I just strolled around a bit more, I found a stairwell where one can get walk on top some of Jerusalem's rooftops. Some locals apparently use it as a short cut. It offered some good views of the city. After leaving the Old City through the Jaffa Gate, the same gate I had entered through, I just went to check out a nearby district called Mea Shearim. The area is home almost exclusively to ultra-orthodox Jews. I really stood out amongst the people there, and got some looks for my trouble. Apparently the area used to be closed off from the rest of the city at night by gates, but not anymore. There is one part that is supposed to be exactly like a 19th century European Jewish enclave. I intend to go back and find it, but was too tired today.
I have also been pretty intrigued by the Israeli soldiers that roam the streets, in the both the new and old cities. They all have assault rifles slung across their chests along with police batons. Not something you see very often.
Right, more to come later.
I moved on to some other sites, and was eventually stopped by two rabbis, kindly asking my name and home country. One of them shook and held my hand and said a prayer over me. I couldn't understand the Hebrew, but I figure whatever he said, I got that going for me. When he finished he duly asked me for money. Sorry, nothing giving rabbi. Thanks for the free prayer though, sucker. From there I did a lot, the Mount Zion, which housed the building where the Last Supper (allegedly) took place and a Holocaust museum, and from there I went to the grave of Oskar Schindler, which took a few minutes to find. I eventually did the Dome of the Rock, but non-Muslims are no longer allowed in the Mosque, so I just stuck to checking out the outside. To get to the Dome you take a bridge from the Western Wall. Along the bridge were some riot shields stacked up, just in case. Apparently things can get pretty hot in the plaza around the Dome. I only visited briefly, however, the area closed again at 1:30, and I was kicked out along with the rest of the foreigners.
After the Dome of the Rock I went for the Church of the Holy Sepulcher. I had heard of the church before, but didn't really know its significance. When I walked in all these people were gathered around a stone slab, kneeling down to touch it and rub random items on it (one lady was using her groceries). Right, so this must be a fairly important place. I stepped outside to check out the guide book and, yeah, pretty big for Christians. The church is built on the site believed to be of Christ's crucifixion. The aforementioned stone slab was apparently where Jesus was laid and wrapped in cloth before burial. A nearby set of stairs led to an altar built on the stone of Golgotha, the site of the cross. People lined up to kneel and prayer and kiss the altar. A large stone can be seen below glass below the altar. Nearby in the church (the church is pretty big, you might have guessed) was the site of Jesus' supposed burial. A tomb had been built around it and lots of people lined up to go in and get a view. I didn't want to wait around, so just settled for the outside.
Afterward I just strolled around a bit more, I found a stairwell where one can get walk on top some of Jerusalem's rooftops. Some locals apparently use it as a short cut. It offered some good views of the city. After leaving the Old City through the Jaffa Gate, the same gate I had entered through, I just went to check out a nearby district called Mea Shearim. The area is home almost exclusively to ultra-orthodox Jews. I really stood out amongst the people there, and got some looks for my trouble. Apparently the area used to be closed off from the rest of the city at night by gates, but not anymore. There is one part that is supposed to be exactly like a 19th century European Jewish enclave. I intend to go back and find it, but was too tired today.
I have also been pretty intrigued by the Israeli soldiers that roam the streets, in the both the new and old cities. They all have assault rifles slung across their chests along with police batons. Not something you see very often.
Right, more to come later.
Hey, Adam:
ReplyDeleteWow, your interactions with the locals makes me want to paraphrase the old Dolly Parton song, "Travelin' 9 to 5/it's all takin' and no givin'." You're a regular chip off the old block; I'm sure your dad will shed a tear reading your post: "That's my boy!" But it sounds good so far. --Uncle Paul