The heading is a slight exaggeration. Today was indeed part of the Jewish Sabbath, but it doesn't really start until dusk. Getting to that in a moment, today was kind of my down day. I didn't have much planned to begin with, and took it pretty slow in the morning. I did go into the Old City for a little gift searching/buying, and emerged with some gifts to bring home.
After a lunch of falafel on King George Street I partook in a little people watching. People watching is a favorite pastime here at the Four Corners, and it is something I always take some time to do whenever on travel. A sub-set of people watching, female watching, is another good one. I of course only do this in the interest of the male readership of the Four Corners, and for no other reason. That being said, I give Israeli girls high marks, nice olive-colored skin and some shapely figures. Ahem, right, anyway, I set myself up on Ben Yehuda Street, a pedestrian only street a stone's throw from my hotel. It was an enjoyable time, aided in part by a couple of street musicians who were jamming some pretty dope tunes nearby.
After a brief rest back at the room I set out again just around dusk for a nearby outdoor market. The market is primarily foodstuffs: fruits, vegetables, baked goods, etc. When I got there everyone was going ape-shit. The sellers were trying to get rid of their last goods and pack it in in time for the Sabbath while shoppers were looking to get set for the next twenty four hours. Interestingly a Rabbi came through the market and blew a horn to indicated the beginning of the Sabbath. He even stopped and one stall, blew his horn, and yelled at the men working there. I can't understand Hebrew, but it sounded like he was telling them to get their asses in gear.
As it got darker the difference in activity was noticeable. Usually bustling streets like King George, Ben Yehuda, and Old Jaffa Road became virtually empty. I decided to go back to the Old City to see what it would be like after the Sabbath began. On my approach I noticed people were streaming into the Old City, many of them Hasidic Jews. Where were the going, you ask? Well, I am going to tell you.
I made my way to Western Wall and, sure enough, that is where everybody was. Apparently a large number, and I mean a large number, of the city's Jews like to start the Sabbath with prayer. What better place to do that than the Western Wall? The area around the Wall was just a sea of black, due to the clothing of the more observant Jews. Tourists are still allowed into the plaza during the Sabbath (but can't take photos) making the number of people even larger. I went down for a closer look and, I gotta say, Jews praying looks like a party. They dance, sing, and laugh. The more conservative Jews tend to stick to rocking back and forth while praying though. Keeping it simple. I am glad that I decided to see the Western Wall during Sabbath prayers, it was really something to observe. I had heard that the Old City shuts up, most certainly the Jewish Quarter, during the Sabbath, but this was something I would not wanted to have missed.
My legs got some needed rest today, and, don't worry, some places, like McDonald's and some supermarkets, remain open even during this time period, so I won't go hungry. Tomorrow I will be on the move again though. I will take a sherut (remember? the shared taxis) to Tel Aviv for the day. I know, I know, I am going there anyway on Sunday, but I have pretty much exhausted everything I wanted to do here in Jerusalem, and things will probably be pretty quiet here anyway, as the Sabbath runs until dusk on Saturday. It is my understanding that the Sabbath in Tel Aviv isn't as big a deal as it is here. I welcome more time in Tel Aviv anyway, it sounds like a neat place.
Look here tomorrow for my recap.
After a lunch of falafel on King George Street I partook in a little people watching. People watching is a favorite pastime here at the Four Corners, and it is something I always take some time to do whenever on travel. A sub-set of people watching, female watching, is another good one. I of course only do this in the interest of the male readership of the Four Corners, and for no other reason. That being said, I give Israeli girls high marks, nice olive-colored skin and some shapely figures. Ahem, right, anyway, I set myself up on Ben Yehuda Street, a pedestrian only street a stone's throw from my hotel. It was an enjoyable time, aided in part by a couple of street musicians who were jamming some pretty dope tunes nearby.
After a brief rest back at the room I set out again just around dusk for a nearby outdoor market. The market is primarily foodstuffs: fruits, vegetables, baked goods, etc. When I got there everyone was going ape-shit. The sellers were trying to get rid of their last goods and pack it in in time for the Sabbath while shoppers were looking to get set for the next twenty four hours. Interestingly a Rabbi came through the market and blew a horn to indicated the beginning of the Sabbath. He even stopped and one stall, blew his horn, and yelled at the men working there. I can't understand Hebrew, but it sounded like he was telling them to get their asses in gear.
As it got darker the difference in activity was noticeable. Usually bustling streets like King George, Ben Yehuda, and Old Jaffa Road became virtually empty. I decided to go back to the Old City to see what it would be like after the Sabbath began. On my approach I noticed people were streaming into the Old City, many of them Hasidic Jews. Where were the going, you ask? Well, I am going to tell you.
I made my way to Western Wall and, sure enough, that is where everybody was. Apparently a large number, and I mean a large number, of the city's Jews like to start the Sabbath with prayer. What better place to do that than the Western Wall? The area around the Wall was just a sea of black, due to the clothing of the more observant Jews. Tourists are still allowed into the plaza during the Sabbath (but can't take photos) making the number of people even larger. I went down for a closer look and, I gotta say, Jews praying looks like a party. They dance, sing, and laugh. The more conservative Jews tend to stick to rocking back and forth while praying though. Keeping it simple. I am glad that I decided to see the Western Wall during Sabbath prayers, it was really something to observe. I had heard that the Old City shuts up, most certainly the Jewish Quarter, during the Sabbath, but this was something I would not wanted to have missed.
My legs got some needed rest today, and, don't worry, some places, like McDonald's and some supermarkets, remain open even during this time period, so I won't go hungry. Tomorrow I will be on the move again though. I will take a sherut (remember? the shared taxis) to Tel Aviv for the day. I know, I know, I am going there anyway on Sunday, but I have pretty much exhausted everything I wanted to do here in Jerusalem, and things will probably be pretty quiet here anyway, as the Sabbath runs until dusk on Saturday. It is my understanding that the Sabbath in Tel Aviv isn't as big a deal as it is here. I welcome more time in Tel Aviv anyway, it sounds like a neat place.
Look here tomorrow for my recap.
Good story about the Sabbath prayers, Adam. This is the kind of thing that keeps the many readers of Four Corners coming back for more!
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